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Upper West Bolton
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Paradox 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Travis Peckham
Page Views: 434
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Oct 25, 2012
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Route Description 

A solid contender for hardest 10d in Bolton, and certainly a proud line up a wave-like arete.

Start on the left-hand side of the arete that forms "Against The Grain" on a smattering of positive, crystalline edges. This route requires a wealth of rock craft--edging, steep face climbing, route finding (this is Bolton, after all!), and endurance. Though this route is broken up a bit, the pump clock has the tendency to "time out" on some folks who don't make use of the rests wisely.


Protection 

6 or 7 bolts



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By Keyan P
From: Burlington, VT
Nov 27, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Solid 11a. 10d would be a sandbag for sure, but this is Vermont...

By Zak Munro
From: VT, Leadville CO
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

really fun climb with a good mixture of holds on really steep slightly overhanging climbing, but it defiantly gets you a really good pump going. Pretty sure the route was put up not to long ago but I would be wary of the cordelette at the anchor when lowering . Tough Schist also says 11a

By Derek Doucet
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Paradox is a relatively recent addition, but that cordalette is vintage. It's actually there for Against the Grain which is a much older route, and has been in place for quite a while. Paradox really needs its own independent anchor.

By Derek Doucet
Jul 21, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Paradox now has an independent anchor. To preserve the character of the top-out while still minimizing rope wear and providing a smooth pull, it was placed high on the wall above the finishing ledge.

If this thing is 5.11, it's the easiest 5.11 in Bolton.

By jhan
From: Lebanon, NH
Sep 30, 2013

Regular Rumney 5.11-12 leader. This felt harder than 10d-11a, especially after climbing the Fresh Meat 10b (adequately rated)right next door. Love the subjectivity of the grades, but this low-balling seems appropriate for Vermont. Regardless this is a great route with great moves and aesthetics(cliff arete). C,mon, it's bolted, go for it!!