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Paradox 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: T. Armstrong
Page Views: 1,048
Submitted By: Tom Armstrong on Jun 22, 2008

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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Stemming, underclings, long powerful reaches to edges and sidepulls topped by a thin and balancy finish with a sinker hand slot to clip the anchor.

A perplexing move to gain the corner leads to a mix of 5.11 stemming and face moves up to the 4th bolt and a no-hands rest in the corner at right.

Move left past the 5th bolt and up through a series of underclings. Power up and left, then punch it some more to gain a positive sidepull. Crimp your way over the bulge on good edges to a thin stance. Rest and regroup for the final set of balancy moves up an incipient seam and thin face holds. Some fun!

Location 

Starts to the right of Dark Star, climbs the corner, then moves left onto the face to the top.

Protection 

8 Bolts to LO.


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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 23, 2008

nice description... ive been wondering what this route was like... thanks...