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Paradise Valley

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Allenspur 
Cowen Cirque 
Mill Creek 

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Paradise Valley 


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Location: 45.618, -110.5672 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,136
Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Sep 7, 2012
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The Yellowstone River flows down the northern end ...

Description 

This beautiful valley of the Yellowstone River provides climbers with a selection of diverse and enjoyable climbing experiences, from clipping bolts at Allenspur to big, hard, granite free climbs on Mount Cowen.

Sandwiched between the Gallatin Range on the west and the Absaroka/Beartooth Range on the east, the season here is as diverse as the climbing. Generally, temps in the valley are a bit milder than the Gallatin Valley, allowing for a slightly longer traditional rock season and even occasional winter days at the low crags of Allenspur. Mill Creek is located further up in the Absaroka/Beartooth mountains and has a more traditional summer season (late May through October). The alpine rock routes of Mount Cowen are subject to the intricacies of mountain weather and snowpack, with July and August beimg best.

Pay camping can be found throughout the valley, with good free options up Mill Creek past the climbing area.

Besides the awesome climbing and backcountry ski opportunities, two of my favorite things about Paradise Valley are soaking in Chico Hot Springs (a few miles south of Mill Creek) and eating at Mark's In and Out in Livingston, both easily combined with a climbing excursion.


Getting There 

I-90 provides the general access point to Paradise Valley from the north, east, and west. Exit at any of the Livingston exits and head south on Highway 89. Refer to specific areas for directions from here.
From the south, it's possible (and recommended if time is available) to enter the valley from the south via Yellowstone National Park. The diversity of scenery is unmatched.


44 Total Routes


['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',3],['5.9',7],['5.10',22],['5.11',7],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Paradise Valley:
Righteous are the Brave   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 50'   Mill Creek : Ladyfingers Buttress
Blood and Bolts   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Allenspur : Main Crag
Quick Tease   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 65'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Ladyfingers   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Mill Creek : Ladyfingers Buttress
Cutthroats Don't Wear Plaid   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Mill Creek : Ladyfingers Buttress
Sully's Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 90'   Allenspur : Main Crag
French Connection   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 75'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Flake Fest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Manly Fingertips   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Mill Creek : Ladyfingers Buttress
Thunderbolt and Lightfeet   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Mill Creek : Thunderbolt Buttress
Montana Centennial Route   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1600'   Cowen Cirque
Rancho Deluxe   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 70'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Browse More Classics in Paradise Valley

Featured Route For Paradise Valley
Getting into the Ladyfingers

Ladyfingers 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  MT : Paradise Valley : ... : Ladyfingers Buttress
One of southwest Montana's nicest cracks despite its short length. Start with a short wider section that delivers you on a large ledge. From here, climb a brief section of hands and then enjoy the excellent tips and fingers crack (the crux), seeking out good feet outside the crack. Quite nice. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MT

Photos of Paradise Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Sunset on the road to the Mill Creek crags.
Sunset on the road to the Mill Creek crags.
Paradise Valley
Paradise Valley
Bear attack!
Bear attack!
Emigrant Peak, as seen from the Allenspur approach, with the first snows of 2011/12. October 8th, 2011.
Emigrant Peak, as seen from the Allenspur approach...
Sunset near Mill Creek crags.
Sunset near Mill Creek crags.
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