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Paradise Valley

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Allenspur 
Cowen Cirque 
Mile 13 Boulders 
Mill Creek 
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Paradise Valley  


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Location: 45.618, -110.5672 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 37,266
Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Sep 7, 2012
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The Yellowstone River flows down the northern end ...

Description 

This beautiful valley of the Yellowstone River provides climbers with a selection of diverse and enjoyable climbing experiences, from clipping bolts at Allenspur to big, hard, granite free climbs on Mount Cowen.

Sandwiched between the Gallatin Range on the west and the Absaroka/Beartooth Range on the east, the season here is as diverse as the climbing. Generally, temps in the valley are a bit milder than the Gallatin Valley, allowing for a slightly longer traditional rock season and even occasional winter days at the low crags of Allenspur. Mill Creek is located further up in the Absaroka/Beartooth mountains and has a more traditional summer season (late May through October). The alpine rock routes of Mount Cowen are subject to the intricacies of mountain weather and snowpack, with July and August beimg best.

Pay camping can be found throughout the valley, with good free options up Mill Creek past the climbing area.

Besides the awesome climbing and backcountry ski opportunities, two of my favorite things about Paradise Valley are soaking in Chico Hot Springs (a few miles south of Mill Creek) and eating at Mark's In and Out in Livingston, both easily combined with a climbing excursion.

Getting There 

I-90 provides the general access point to Paradise Valley from the north, east, and west. Exit at any of the Livingston exits and head south on Highway 89. Refer to specific areas for directions from here.
From the south, it's possible (and recommended if time is available) to enter the valley from the south via Yellowstone National Park. The diversity of scenery is unmatched.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

71 Total Routes

['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',28],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',4],['5.8',4],['5.9',8],['5.10',26],['5.11',10],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',14],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Paradise Valley:
Jens   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 55'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Climbing Club Route   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Allenspur : Main Crag
Righteous are the Brave   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 50'   Mill Creek : Ladyfingers Buttress
Blood and Bolts   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Allenspur : Main Crag
Ladyfingers   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Mill Creek : Ladyfingers Buttress
Josh Was Grounded   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   Allenspur : Boundry Crag
Yellowstone Poseidon Adventures   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
French Connection   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 75'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Dam in the Rain   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Cutthroats Don't Wear Plaid   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Mill Creek : Ladyfingers Buttress
Sully's Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 90'   Allenspur : Main Crag
Commie Bastards   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
One Bullet to Many   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 65'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Spur Corner   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Flake Fest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
The Amazing Chuck and Grace   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   Allenspur : Boundry Crag
Manly Fingertips   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Mill Creek : Ladyfingers Buttress
Thunderbolt and Lightfeet   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Mill Creek : Thunderbolt Buttress
Montana Centennial Route   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1600'   Cowen Cirque
Rancho Deluxe   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Browse More Classics in Paradise Valley

Featured Route For Paradise Valley
1 - French Connection 5.10a 2 - Flake Fest 5.10b

Flake Fest 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  MT : Paradise Valley : ... : 7-11 Crag
A fantastic route that goes up one of the most classic flakes and splitters out at Allenspur. All bolted due to the flakes somewhat delicate nature. No individual move is that difficult but it is one of the more sustained routes out here. Go send it! ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MT

Photos of Paradise Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Sunset on the road to the Mill Creek crags.
Sunset on the road to the Mill Creek crags.
Paradise Valley
Paradise Valley
Bear attack!
Bear attack!
Emigrant Peak, as seen from the Allenspur approach...
Emigrant Peak, as seen from the Allenspur approach...
Sunset near Mill Creek crags.
Sunset near Mill Creek crags.

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