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Paradise Lost 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,966
Submitted By: LeeAB on Oct 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Andy Miers works Paradise Lost. 2009 mattkuehlphot...

Description 

Move up into a right facing flake that is the route The Castle Has Fallen. At the second bolt start moving right across the face with long moves on good hold or shorter moves using some of the smaller holds. Eventually get to a rest on a small ledge. Head back onto the arete that you just turned and climb the 25 foot section on side pulls, pockets and crimps that thin as you get higher. A couple of very long moves right at the top after the angle relents takes you to the anchors.

Location 

This route climbs the right arete of the main section of wall just left of the big ampatheatre.

Protection 

Bolts to a bolted anchor.


Photos of Paradise Lost Slideshow Add Photo
Macho starting the first tough sequence
Macho starting the first tough sequence
The fading light
The fading light
Macho sticking the lunge
Macho sticking the lunge

Comments on Paradise Lost Add Comment
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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 21, 2011

An amazing climb, one of my favorites I've done at RRG, or anywhere for that matter. The holds are an amazing combination of pockets, crimps, pinches, and underclings. And it is one of the most picturesque climbs as well.

Now downgraded to 13a if you use the no hands rest below the 4th? bolt. which judging from chalk alot of people do. I used it as it made sense to downclimb two moves and stand on the ledge rather than have my feet a foot above it while resting. If you want 13b credit then the ledge should be avoided.

An extension "Paradise Regained" continues above the no hands rest at the anchors. It is rumored to be a stiff 13b on its own.