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Paradise Lost. photo by Mat Jacobson.
Pull some unprotected, bouldery moves from the left to get to a beautiful right-facing fingers dihedral. Flared jams, hard stemming, and a bit of power laybacking are all required on this stout, sustained route. One of the most classic lines at the Forks.
Just left of Equalizer, and a bit to the right of Loose Lips/Torpedo area.
lots of .75 and 1 Friends (.4 and .5 camalots), stoppers, long slings for the tree at the top.
Mark pulls hard on the layback.
Scotty works the layback over the second cruxy bul...
Visiting climber pulling through main crux on an o...
|Comments on Paradise Lost
|By chuck claude|
From: Flagstaff, Az
Apr 27, 2007
It is fairly uprotected to get started, but I don't think the route is PG13, its about as protected as it gets. The pro on the normal start is better then the direct start which I prefer nowadays. The direct start is clean, fun version with three moves but is totally unprotected.
Its also probably one of the top routes at Paradise Forks
|By Michael Sokoloff|
From: Spokane, WA
Oct 10, 2007
This pitch has it all: heady start, tough jams, laybacks, stems and a real enduro element. One of the best pitches at PF and maybe in Northern Arizona.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
May 18, 2009
Come on Rickd, gravity, rattly fingers and a lack of endurance probably had more to do with it than a bloody pinky. That was my downfall yesterday. Even so it was a beautiful failure and was the best climb I got on this weekend.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
May 19, 2009
It's a pinky ya big weenie. Ha Ha. I should have know it was bad if you mentioned it.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 24, 2010
Just climbed this thing today, wow one of my favorite climbs in AZ. Enduro, has it all.
|By Peter Franzen|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 5, 2012
Awesome route, but I thought it felt hard for the grade. If Davidson's Dihedral is 11+ I don't see how this is just a fraction of a grade harder at 12-.