Paradise Lost 5.12- PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Tim Coats and Paul Davidson |
| Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall |
| Submitted By: | camhead on Oct 31, 2006 |
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Paradise Lost. photo by Mat Jacobson.
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Description Pull some unprotected, bouldery moves from the left to get to a beautiful right-facing fingers dihedral. Flared jams, hard stemming, and a bit of power laybacking are all required on this stout, sustained route. One of the most classic lines at the Forks.
Location Just left of Equalizer, and a bit to the right of Loose Lips/Torpedo area.
Protection lots of .75 and 1 Friends (.4 and .5 camalots), stoppers, long slings for the tree at the top.
5/86
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Mark pulls hard on the layback.
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Scotty works the layback over the second cruxy bul...
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Visiting climber pulling through main crux on an o...
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| Comments on Paradise Lost |
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By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Apr 27, 2007
| It is fairly uprotected to get started, but I don't think the route is PG13, its about as protected as it gets. The pro on the normal start is better then the direct start which I prefer nowadays. The direct start is clean, fun version with three moves but is totally unprotected.
Its also probably one of the top routes at Paradise Forks |
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Oct 10, 2007
| This pitch has it all: heady start, tough jams, laybacks, stems and a real enduro element. One of the best pitches at PF and maybe in Northern Arizona. |
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 18, 2009
| Come on Rickd, gravity, rattly fingers and a lack of endurance probably had more to do with it than a bloody pinky. That was my downfall yesterday. Even so it was a beautiful failure and was the best climb I got on this weekend. |
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 19, 2009
| It's a pinky ya big weenie. Ha Ha. I should have know it was bad if you mentioned it. |
By Erock
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 24, 2010
| Just climbed this thing today, wow one of my favorite climbs in AZ. Enduro, has it all. |
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 5, 2012
| Awesome route, but I thought it felt hard for the grade. If Davidson's Dihedral is 11+ I don't see how this is just a fraction of a grade harder at 12-. |
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