||Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||P-1 Nathan Brown, rope solo P-2 Nathan Brown & Bill Bilbick|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,819|
|Submitted By: ||nbrown on Nov 30, 2007|
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Jeff on the steep "crack" of pitch 1.
Climb to the first small ledge of Paradise Alley and move right to bolt. Clip bolt (doubles as first bolt on "Paradise Lost, which goes straight up) then move up and right past a brief section of chossy rock. Pull the funky move (# 4 Camelot here is nice) to the crack feature, and follow it through the overhangs and up a slab to belay at small ledge (sling). P-2 Continue straight up the buttress on stellar climbing for almost 200' to a large ledge and belay. P-3 Finish on "Paradise Alley". Note: The second pitch is one of the best 5.9 ropelengths around!
This route climbs the funky orange colored arching crack feature to the right of "Paradise Alley".
Blue/green hybrid alien is usefull. # 4 Camelot is also usefull. Bring one of the two, or both.
BETA PHOTO: Topo of 2 pitches. Not showing the 2 bolt start/t...
By Phil York
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Great route. This section of Shortoff is a great place to get more routes in. You can climb the first pitch (business pitches) of Paradise Alley, Paradise Lost, and Paradise City to make for a more productive day. Toping out on whatever last one you do for a lunch break :)