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Paradise Alley 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Bill Newman - 1979
Page Views: 4,372
Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on May 31, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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This is the start to Paradise Alley..
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  • Description 

    A great route with the first 3 pitches offering spectacular climbing and great protection. A Shortoff classic! This is not a recommended climb for aspiring 5.8 leaders.

    P1 (crux). Climb the hand-sized crack through the overhang and continue to the obvious belay in an alcove. 5.8+, 120'

    P2. Trend left and up to base of gently overhanging wall. 5.7, 100'

    P3. Climb the incredible wall on insanely positive incut holds with a vertical crack that eats gear. Bushwack up beyond the top to large level area. 5.7, 70'

    P4. Surmount large block accross gap. Easier on right. 5.8, 60'

    Hike back to trail, turn right then back to camp or descent.


    Location 

    Turn right at base of descent gully and hike for a while. The trail leaves the base of the cliff then returns near it. Keep a lookout for the hand crack through an overhang close to the ground that starts the route.


    Protection 

    One of everything. Large cams will be helpful on P1 but not necessary.



    Photos of Paradise Alley Slideshow Add Photo
    Alex heading up p3
    Alex heading up p3
    My buddy Ryan at the belay at the top of pitch 1. <br /><a href='http://www.verticalvoyages.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.verticalvoyages.com</a>
    My buddy Ryan at the belay at the top of pitch 1.
    ...
    Paddling up pitch 3!
    Paddling up pitch 3!
    Mike Holley Pulling the roof on the last pitch of Paradise Alley
    Mike Holley Pulling the roof on the last pitch of ...
    Alex heading up P1
    Alex heading up P1
    Comments on Paradise Alley Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By rock_fencer
    From: Columbia, SC
    Oct 24, 2011
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

    Variation: Climb P1 as described. P2 heads straight up from belay stance and cuts out right under roof onto a lichen covered face with jug hauling for a full 170 feet or so up to a large ledge. P3 head up and left for 40 feet or so to top of buttress- could be linked with P2 possibly. P4 move left on top and climb another 40 feet to top of cliff. Good fun and exposure

    By Peter Pitocchi
    Apr 23, 2012

    Lots of hand size pieces on pitch 1 Burly, sustained lots of layback, deserves the +. Start of pitch 2 protect the traverse or set up your belay left on ledge. Sharp edges on some of this route. A great climb first pitch memorable.

    By Mike Holley
    From: Boone, NC
    Sep 16, 2012

    Fantastic route all the way north on Short Off! It is quite a bushwhack to get out there, but it it totally worth it!! I would say this route was noticeably stiffer then its cousin Maginot Line, but worth the work! Bring as doubles of c4 1',2's and perhaps 3's if you want to stitch up the first pitch, which is deceptively steep! The business is the first pitch but every other one has its fun sections, its mostly a vertical jug haul with splendid views into the gorge!

    • *Highly Recommend**