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Paradise Alley 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Bill Newman - 1979
Page Views: 5,500
Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on May 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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This is the start to Paradise Alley..

Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A great route with the first 3 pitches offering spectacular climbing and great protection. A Shortoff classic! This is not a recommended climb for aspiring 5.8 leaders.

P1 (crux). Climb the hand-sized crack through the overhang and continue to the obvious belay in an alcove. 5.8+, 120'

P2. Trend left and up to base of gently overhanging wall. 5.7, 100'

P3. Climb the incredible wall on insanely positive incut holds with a vertical crack that eats gear. Bushwack up beyond the top to large level area. 5.7, 70'

P4. Surmount large block accross gap. Easier on right. 5.8, 60'

Hike back to trail, turn right then back to camp or descent.

Location 

Turn right at base of descent gully and hike for a while. The trail leaves the base of the cliff then returns near it. Keep a lookout for the hand crack through an overhang close to the ground that starts the route.

Protection 

One of everything. Large cams will be helpful on P1 but not necessary.


Photos of Paradise Alley Slideshow Add Photo
nice look at the roof traverse of P2 start
BETA PHOTO: nice look at the roof traverse of P2 start
Alex heading up p3
Alex heading up p3
My buddy Ryan at the belay at the top of pitch 1. <br /><a href='http://www.verticalvoyages.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >verticalvoyages.com</a>
My buddy Ryan at the belay at the top of pitch 1. ...
Mike Holley Pulling the roof on the last pitch of Paradise Alley
Mike Holley Pulling the roof on the last pitch of ...
Alex heading up P1
Alex heading up P1
Paddling up pitch 3!
Paddling up pitch 3!

Comments on Paradise Alley Add Comment
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By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Variation: Climb P1 as described. P2 heads straight up from belay stance and cuts out right under roof onto a lichen covered face with jug hauling for a full 170 feet or so up to a large ledge. P3 head up and left for 40 feet or so to top of buttress- could be linked with P2 possibly. P4 move left on top and climb another 40 feet to top of cliff. Good fun and exposure
By Peter Pitocchi
Apr 23, 2012

Lots of hand size pieces on pitch 1 Burly, sustained lots of layback, deserves the +. Start of pitch 2 protect the traverse or set up your belay left on ledge. Sharp edges on some of this route. A great climb first pitch memorable.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Sep 16, 2012

Fantastic route all the way north on Short Off! It is quite a bushwhack to get out there, but it it totally worth it!! I would say this route was noticeably stiffer then its cousin Maginot Line, but worth the work! Bring as doubles of c4 1',2's and perhaps 3's if you want to stitch up the first pitch, which is deceptively steep! The business is the first pitch but every other one has its fun sections, its mostly a vertical jug haul with splendid views into the gorge!

  • *Highly Recommend**
By b.t.miller
From: Charlotte, NC
Aug 18, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Agree with M. Holley regarding this route being considerably stiffer than Maginot. P1 wastes no time and fires up straight off the jungle-dense vegetated gorge floor. From there P1 remains relatively sustained right up to the start of the crux which seemed to start in earnest as soon as the dihedral leaned left. Crux seemed pretty sustained for my noodle arms. I do think the crux is 5.8+ but I also don't think anyone would raise an eyebrow if this pitch was listed as 5.9. It seemed unrelenting for about 15-20' with the finishing moves being the hardest (sort of flaring off-width section).... the gorge and your gear are a fair bit below you at that point.

Loads of old slings at P1 belay, however there is solid opportunity for pro just a few feet above those slings.

P2 - posted a photo of the traverse off P1 belay (traverse climber's left under and around roof, and then generally up path of least resistance to P2 belay)

P3 - is short but packs a good punch as you motor-boat the jugs.

P4 - thank goodness you can protect this short pitch well because it's steep and the thought of becoming a temporary chockstone between 200' deep buttress walls seemed as fun as being a dingleberry.

GEAR -- tricams (used red, brown and blue), 1 set of nuts seemed sufficient (4-13), and doubles of BD cams 0.5-2.0 were big handy. Took and used singles of 0.2, 0.3 and 3.0 BD cams.