|Type:||Trad, 6 pitches|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Adrian Lazar on Aug 22, 2011|
|Comments on Papoose One||Add Comment|
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By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Aug 17, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
A worthy, and engaging adventure across and up the Papoose! You definitely want a follower who is comfortable following traverses though, as there are many.
P1 10b (Centerfold) - Fun, and thoughtful move at the bolt. Gear anchor.
P2 5.8 - Easy traverse to a burly 5.8 crack. And then a delicate traverse to a bolted anchor.
p3 5.10a - Kind of weird getting to the bolt, and a touch dirty. The chimney move is straightforward, but don't fall as the ledge is in play. The upper crack was DIRTY unfortunately, and I had to dig our a placement or two. But it is fairly easy. Bolted anchor.
P4 5.9 - The traverse into Hairpin is easy (5.8) and well protected for leader and follower. And you then get the 5.9 move on the Hairpin pitch. Bolted anchor.
P5 5.6 - Easy, but fun (and runout). Left and up past the trees. Then straight up to a cool hand traverse crack back to a bolted below.
P6 5.10a - Solid slab action.
Gear: Nuts, double cams finger size to #3. I definitely used the #3 camalot unlike the contributor above.
We rapped Centerfold with 2 double 70m raps, but there is an easy descent to the North.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 12, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|FA: Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstad, 1961. FFA: Eric Weinstein, Anders Qurom, 1974|