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The Papoose
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Centerfold T 
Hairpin T 
Hanging Gardens T 
Laid Back T 
Mercury Vapour T 
Mushroom T 
Obsession T 
Pamplemousse T,S 
Papoose One T 
Transit of Venus T 

Papoose One 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 371
Submitted By: Adrian Lazar on Aug 22, 2011

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Description 

A nice option if Centerfold is busy. Shares the same start as Centerfold, p1 (easy 5.10a). P2 (5.8) traverse left and climb an awkward crack. P3 (5.10b) climb up an awkward chimney protected by a bolt. P4 (easy 5.8) traverse left then right. P5 either go straight up on slab (5.9) or follow the dirty crack (5.10a).

Location 

Shares the same start as Centerfold.

Protection 

Up to 2 inches, full set of nuts. There is a bolt on p1, p3, and a handful on the p5 slab variation pitch.


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 17, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A worthy, and engaging adventure across and up the Papoose! You definitely want a follower who is comfortable following traverses though, as there are many.

P1 10b (Centerfold) - Fun, and thoughtful move at the bolt. Gear anchor.
P2 5.8 - Easy traverse to a burly 5.8 crack. And then a delicate traverse to a bolted anchor.
p3 5.10a - Kind of weird getting to the bolt, and a touch dirty. The chimney move is straightforward, but don't fall as the ledge is in play. The upper crack was DIRTY unfortunately, and I had to dig our a placement or two. But it is fairly easy. Bolted anchor.
P4 5.9 - The traverse into Hairpin is easy (5.8) and well protected for leader and follower. And you then get the 5.9 move on the Hairpin pitch. Bolted anchor.
P5 5.6 - Easy, but fun (and runout). Left and up past the trees. Then straight up to a cool hand traverse crack back to a bolted below.
P6 5.10a - Solid slab action.

Gear: Nuts, double cams finger size to #3. I definitely used the #3 camalot unlike the contributor above.

We rapped Centerfold with 2 double 70m raps, but there is an easy descent to the North.