Just south of the Paper Mill Road Bridge, in the woods on the east shore of Loch Raven/Gunpowder river, lie several small rock outcrops with a plethora of boulders strewn about. Most climbs here are boulder problems. But there are some routes pushing 20+ feet, of which one may want to set up a short TR on. Anchors can be long and tricky to set up. Depending on where one is, either gear and/or natural anchors are used.
The rock type here is a Loch Raven Schist. Beware that poison ivy exists along the trail walking in and near some of the rock.
Parking is limited along Paper Mill Road at the bridge, but there are three nearby options, and then more further away if you don't mind a hike. Watch pulling out if parked at bridge, limited sight distance and high traffic (esp at rush hour) make it tricky.
PLEASE NOTE: If you climb here or just decide to hike in to see the area, be a good land steward and take a trash bag or two with you. The local fisherman are turning the area into a landfill. This is especially true around Fisherman's Rock.
Park at bridge and locate the fisherman's trail on the southeast side of the old bridge (behind the wall). Follow this past a few boulders to the river and follow it down stream, you will then come to "Fisherman's Rock". At the end of this rock, you can scramble up a 7 foot high rock wall to follow the trail and continue on to the other better climbing areas. takes about 3 to 5 min. to walk.
5 Total Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Paper Mill Rd
The Remains Of Mankind 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
: Baltimore City Watershed
: ... : The Fins
Start 7' from the right edge of the rock. Climb up past a small right-facing corner (crux; V1, see "Dawn Of Mankind") to a ledge. Follow the ledge with your hands (taking care not to dislodge the small rock) left and up, working your feet on what seems like a blank wall, heading for the large right-facing flake/corner. Once in the corner; layback, jam, work the face or stem your way to the top. Rated X because the bottom half is unprotected.At the top you can see the old rema...[more] Browse More Classics in MD