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Cactus Rose Cliff
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Unsorted Routes:

Paper Bondage 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rich Aschert?
Page Views: 210
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 14, 2003
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Description 

This route is listed at 10a in the Van Horn's guide and Knapp's guide. I am not sure if either of them have climbed it or not, but sticking to the bolt line is more likely in the 11c range. If climbing the bolts directly was the intent, this is possibly the hardest 10 at shelf. I think Knapp's guide might mention climbing around the right side and leaning way around to the left to clip, or something like that.

To find this route, look at the description for the route 'Aliens Ate My Penis'. This route is next to it, on the right.

This route was my long term nemesis for about 15 years. Every few years I would think I was climbing well and that maybe I should go give it a shot. This route also beat several of my partners down over the years as well. If you go do it, don't think of it as another fluffy Shelf 10, or it might not go too well.

Climb the face on small dispersed pockets with a slap to a sloping, greasy hold on the arete near the second bolt. Your right leg will probably feel pretty useless about half of the time. Luckily, the climbing eases up a bit when you reach the roof, but you will probably be getting pretty pumped. Luckily, most of the holds are very sharp, so you won't slip off of them (without losing a lot of skin).

Good luck.


Protection 

3 bolts - lower off of 3rd bolt or top out and scramble down a gash to the west. Addendum: there are now 2 anchor bolts.



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By Rich Aschert
Oct 29, 2005

I added two anchors to this route. Hard on-sight for 10+*. If you do the direct start (steep pocketed start), I recommend stick clipping the first bolt.

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 1, 2008

The book mentions climbing around the arete, which I did, but even so, it's still a difficult 10 with a hard boulder start. If this is the intended path, the (two) bolts are oddly placed. The burly start is overhanging on pockets and poor feet and clips are made from around the corner. Once I got to the roof and went left to the arete the route eased up and posed little difficulty even though it's a fair distance from the second bolt to the anchors. Look for a nice pocket on the left from which you can clip.