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Papa's Got a Brand New Crag 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: K Mclaughlin , G Schuler
Page Views: 1,149
Submitted By: Kevin McLaughlin on Mar 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Fantastic climbing on this route.
Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb past one bolt to a finger crack.


Location 

This is right of Stranglehold.


Protection 

Gear required.



Photos of Papa's Got a Brand New Crag Slideshow Add Photo
K. Mclaughlin high on Papa's New Crag.   Photo by the G.
K. Mclaughlin high on Papa's New Crag. Photo by ...
Glenn Schuler on Papa.    Photo David Russell.
Glenn Schuler on Papa. Photo David Russell.
A nice friendly top rope, I think this is the crux. <br />
A nice friendly top rope, I think this is the crux...
Brandon working his way through the Post Office Wall.
Brandon working his way through the Post Office Wa...
Comments on Papa's Got a Brand New Crag Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
May 25, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

One of the best pitches I've ever climbed. just amazing movement and very sustained. 5 out of 4 stars.
the gear is bomber, and just where you need it.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 17, 2011

Agreed with Monty. REALLY fun route! Red and grey Aliens (or similar) might be nice before the first bolt. Amazing how this rock eats up finger pieces and nuts on killer sporty climbing!

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 8, 2011

I see people are going right of the bolt on this climb.... I went left and thought it was at least .11+ if not .12- (compared to other routes at T-Ridge). Pretty desperate moves off of an undercling and terrible side-pull to a bad side-pull to slopers.

BETA: a BD #0.75 and #0.5 protect the moves to the bolt nicely. I was able to climb up real fast in tennis shoes, place the #0.75 in a bomber placement and then jump back down.

By Garrett Bales
From: Lake City, CO
Jun 17, 2012
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

I found this thing to be much harder than it looks. The gear was not as plug and go as it looks either, kinda the typical Thunder rounded flare in the back, but maybe I just suck at plugging gear. Good climb, sustained, turns out its a little tough warmup.

By L Stern
From: Golden, CO
Sep 27, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

This route is fun!! Steep and solid rock with good holds, goes mostly on gear. I got an extra large nut and 0.75 Camalot right next to each other for my first pieces before the bolt.

By Drew Thayer
From: Durango, CO
Oct 22, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is a very fun route, classic Thunder: funky, exciting, with some surprises. As stated, #0.75 and #0.5 Camalots protect the moves to the bolt. A good blue Alien goes in from the next stance, and a super-bomb #0.3 Camalot goes in one move up.

Thanks for the bolt, opens up a real good line. Why not go for the mantle-funk-to-undercling, it's sweet!

By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
May 1, 2014

Some asshole took the biners at the anchors. Currently there are single quicklinks on the hangers. If anyone is planning on doing this route soon, you may want to bring a couple extra links so your rope won't get twisted to shit.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
May 1, 2014

Glenn,

Thanks for noting that & rappelling should work fine for anyone doing the route soon hereafter. In fact, even with single links, our rope was less snarled than what often occurs with Fixe single ring anchors.