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Goldilocks Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Bear 
Gold Dust 
Hot Shit 
Mama Bear 
Papa Bear 
Wolf Crack 

Papa Bear 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Max Jones, 1976
Season: Spring, summer, and fall are the best times.
Page Views: 726
Submitted By: urs on Jul 21, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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And finally resting after the crux and getting rea...


This severe overhanging dihedral is one of the most obvious lines on the Goldilocks Wall. Follow the obvious right leaning dihedral through tricky and powerful lye backs and finger locks. This line was put up first ascent on a lead onsight which is rare today, because most people would rather toprope it.


Papa Bear is located to the left of baby bear and to the right of mama bear.


This dihedral takes small tcu's and nuts plus a few larger cams for the top.
There is a bolted anchor which u can easily access from walking to the top of the cliff.

Photos of Papa Bear Slideshow Add Photo
Me looking very Garth like
Me looking very Garth like
Me on a rare onsight lead of the ultra classic Papa Bear 5.11b.
Me on a rare onsight lead of the ultra classic Pap...
Reaching for the crux hold.
Reaching for the crux hold.
Starting the crux sequence.
Starting the crux sequence.
Comments on Papa Bear Add Comment
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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jul 23, 2009

A really nice route, congrats to urs on the onsight! I dogged it on TR but enjoyed it. I feel that the shortness of the climb and the short crux don't warrant 4 stars, but definitely a good line with good climbing.

By urs
Aug 5, 2009

I can go with 3 stars for papa bear, but for Donner Summit there are very few 5.11b trad routes and Papa Bear is probably one of the best. So I put 4 stars due to what is in the area. If u compare it to Yosemite it definitely doesn't get 4 stars.