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 ADVANCED
Three Bears
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Any Major Dude S,TR 
Baby Bear TR 
Creative Germs TR 
Every Major Dudette TR 
Gentle Ben TR 
Goldilocks TR 
Honey Pot TR 
Howdy Dude TR 
Mama Bear TR 
Papa Bear TR 
Unknown TR 

Papa Bear 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,850
Submitted By: EricD on Feb 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Teddy reaching.

Description 

This route is pretty straightforward until you get to the roof. Then it's a hand jam and a long reach to a jug in the middle of two cracks. Some fancy footwork (a toe jam and a heel hook) will get you to the top. The guidebook rates this as a 5.9, which is way off. Count on something harder.

Location 

This route begins on the left-most of the three cracks that are Papa, Mama, and Baby (left to right, respectively).

Protection 

top rope


Photos of Papa Bear Slideshow Add Photo
The roof
The roof
Pulling hard.
Pulling hard.
The obvious roof with a splitter through it.
BETA PHOTO: The obvious roof with a splitter through it.
The roof
The roof
Crux Move on Papa Bear
Crux Move on Papa Bear

Comments on Papa Bear Add Comment
Show which comments
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Oct 18, 2008

If you can do a pull up, this one is not too bad. Probably a bit sandbagged at 5.9, but there is a huge jug past the lip that you can cut your feet loose and swing from. Its probably 5.8 just getting to the roof, then power moves after it.
By Rob Lilley
From: Greensboro, NC
Aug 15, 2012

Is this leadable on trad gear? It's listed as a TR but it looks feasible, if a little spicy lower down?
By hwendlandt
May 15, 2014

The chalk-marked hold on the left edge of the roof is LOOSE! It may still hold for a while, especially if you grab nearer the wall (imagine the bottom scoop of a J being the more stable bit), but someone is going to crank on the far edge, and be in for a dangerous surprise. This is a larger rock, so I'm urging CAUTION on this route. Skip that hold or give it up.