Home to some of the most classic and fun multi-pitch climbing in Rio. If you are a climber, there is no excuse to take the cable car to the top. There are routes for all ability levels, so choose wisely. Many of the bigger routes are bolt protected, but be prepared for run-outs and a very traditional feel. Bring long runners and a 60 meter rope. Some of the best routes on the Pao de Acucar are the Via das Italianos, Waldemar Guimaraes, the Totem, the Chiminea Stop, and Secundo Costa Neto.
There are five main areas on the Pao de Acucar: each of the four faces, and the Totem, which is part of the south face. As a point of reference, the west face is directly underneath the cable car route. To access the west and north face, you must hike over the shoulder between Pao de Acucar and Urca, on a well established trail that splits off of the main paved path which skirts the south side of the formation. To reach the south face, there are smaller climber trails established that break off of the same paved path. To reach the east face, you walk to the end of the paved trail and then cross 4th and 5th class terrain to get to the base of the climbs.
Browse More Classics in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf):
Coringa 5.6 Sport, 3 pitches, 330 feet, Grade II
Chamine Stop 5.7 R Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 750 feet, Grade III
Via das Italianos 5.10 Sport, 9 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III
As de Espadas 5.10d Sport, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Secundo Costa Neto 5.11 Trad, Sport, 10 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III
Lagartao 5.11+ Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) 5.11+ PG13 Trad, Sport, 10 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III
Via do Totem 5.11+ Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 750 feet, Grade III
Featured Route For Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Via do Totem 5.11+ International : South America : ... : Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
This route is actually a combination of several routes on the Totem formation that were established over the course of several years. Sika em Frente to Limiar das Lacas to As Lacas Tambem Amam to Revolta das Gravatas to Lagartao.It is absolutely spectacular. There are splitter cracks and technical face moves up a beautiful wall....[more] Browse More Classics in International