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Home to some of the most classic and fun multi-pitch climbing in Rio. If you are a climber, there is no excuse to take the cable car to the top. There are routes for all ability levels, so choose wisely. Many of the bigger routes are bolt protected, but be prepared for run-outs and a very traditional feel. Bring long runners and a 60 meter rope. Some of the best routes on the Pao de Acucar are the Via das Italianos, Waldemar Guimaraes, the Totem, the Chiminea Stop, and Secundo Costa Neto.
There are five main areas on the Pao de Acucar: each of the four faces, and the Totem, which is part of the south face. As a point of reference, the west face is directly underneath the cable car route. To access the west and north face, you must hike over the shoulder between Pao de Acucar and Urca, on a well established trail that splits off of the main paved path which skirts the south side of the formation. To reach the south face, there are smaller climber trails established that break off of the same paved path. To reach the east face, you walk to the end of the paved trail and then cross 4th and 5th class terrain to get to the base of the climbs.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf):
Via das Italianos 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 9 pitches, 700'
Featured Route For Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Via das Italianos 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b South America : Brazil : ... : Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
This is the most famous route on the Pao de Acucar. It is on the west face of the formation and climbs up directly underneath the cable car. It is mostly easy but technical face and slab climbing in a beautiful setting. Second half of the first pitch can be tricky for someone not so used to face climbs....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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