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Pillow Wall
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Panza Roja 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Josh Cross, Manny Rangel
New Route: Yes
Season: AM sun/ PM shade
Page Views: 1,058
Submitted By: Hardhat n Hexes on Oct 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Lisa beginning the top third of the route.

Description 

This is an interesting, engaging route and unusual climbing for the Forks. It's almost entirely face with thin, but adequate protection. Manuel Rangel found, cleaned, TR'd and equipped this pitch. A safe lead would not of been possible without his efforts. Hats off to Manny for finding this quality route which had been overlooked for so long. The climbing is challenging and enjoyable. Their are some loose flakes about 30 ft up but it's easy at that point. The upper face is a little licheny but still climbs well. One should feel comfortable leading above small wireds and cams. Begin in a corner to a bulge (1st pin), face to flakes then a little to the right. Climb up along the arete (2nd pin) then face climb on the right side of the arete to the top.

Location 

This route is all the way left of the Pillow Wall where the ground drops down and the cliff gets taller. It starts in an obtuse corner with an overhang 25 ft up. It can be recognized as a prominent pillar with a very flat top. There is a Ponderosa behind it which leans steeply away from the edge of the canyon.

Protection 

2-3 sets of cams gray-blue metolious and one #3 camelot which can be placed in the initial corner. Also, small to medium nuts. Offsets are useful. Bring extra nuts. There are 2 fixed pins.


Photos of Panza Roja Slideshow Add Photo
Lisa looking for the jug above the roof about 25' ...
Lisa looking for the jug above the roof about 25' ...
Mike topping out, Lisa belaying. You can almost se...
BETA PHOTO: Mike topping out, Lisa belaying. You can almost se...

Comments on Panza Roja Add Comment
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By Paul Davidson
Mar 28, 2012

There is a climb in this area, that sounds somewhat like this description. I believe it was named Kon Tiki. My recollection is that we started from sort of as far left as you could go on the Pillow wall bench and then up (I seem to recall the belayer initially being above the leader as they sat up on the bench. I leaned out and placed a nut and then went down lower so had a TR for the starting moves. My recolection was 10+/11- and involved steep face climbing and very tricky pro. It was on the right side of the nose of that pilar. I recall thinking it was a really cool route and I think LC did a second ascent. I suspect IF this is the same climb, it has lain there in obscurity for years. It's also possible this is a different climb just in the same area. Post up a picture.
By Hardhat n Hexes
From: Flagstaff, AZ.
Apr 1, 2012

Heh Paul, This is not the climb you describe. This one starts below and way left of the bench. Leaning over to place the first nut would not be an option. It's worth checking out! Sorry, I have no picture
By L Stern
From: Golden, CO
Jun 8, 2012

Manny put me on this quality route today - super fun and thank you Manny! Thought provoking, technical climbing on small gear placed in scattered little cracks. It's not a route that you can sew up, but the gear is pretty good and all there if you look. The 2 pitons are right where you want them, and the 2nd one especially helps keep you on route. I completely agree with the rack recommendations in the description of this route. Get on this one, it's late bloomer, but a gem.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jun 12, 2012

Paul, I think your route may be up and right of the start of this one. I'll check it out next time I go.

Thanks for the props Josh. Josh Cross and Chuck Claude got the first free ascent; great going amigo!

I spent about three seasons on stealth clean mode on the rock. It had a ton of loose rock at the start; still some left. Be cautious. The lichen above is not as bad as it was, with more use it will move along.

I wanted to keep the route true to the nature of the area and I hope I did.