BETA PHOTO: Panty Wall, right side.
This area is popular because it has a host of moderates. To locate the Panty Wall look for the reddish wall with a large swath of varnish in the shape of black panties. The pine tree that used to be a landmark is no longer there.
All the routes on the Panty Wall are split between three separate walls. The first four climbs are on the separate formation that is uphill and to the left. The next routes are on the main wall and continue out the ramp to the right. The next three routes are on a blocky wall just past the last route.
[Reprinted with permission from Jed Botsford, Climbing Ranger - RRCNCA].
To get to the Panty Wall, follow the trail down to the rock outcropping and then turn left (west) and follow the trial down across the wash and up a hill. When you reach the top of the hill continue to follow the trail until you can drop into the wash and climb the slickrock slabs up to the wall.
Browse More Classics in Panty Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Panty Wall:
Featured Route For Panty Wall
: Red Rock
: ... : Panty Wall
Those who have never climbed on desert varnish will find this climb a splendid introduction. The "glued on " nature of varnished holds over sandstone provides a unique climbing experience, of which the right hand flake near the first bolt is a fine example. Remember, pull down and not out and don't climb when the rock is wet. One would hate to contribute to the destruction of such an amazing climbing area.Below the main wall, a flat ledge narrows and angles upwards the farther right you go. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
BETA PHOTO: First Pullout Overview
BETA PHOTO: Panty Wall
Climbing at Panty Wall.
Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Looking west at the Panty Wall.
Looking East at the panty wall. Kinda chalky arou...
Climbers at Panty Wall
BETA PHOTO: a nice shot up close of the wall.
Looking at the steep part of the Panty Wall
Snowy Panty Wall pine tree. Dec 18, 2008.
Outdoor artist Bonnie Kelso (www.bkelso.com) climb...
Rap down Panty Prow (5.6)
Climbing one of the 5.7s on the far right
One of the 5.7s
Climbers on Panty Wall
The chimney beneathe the Panty Wall, a fine place ...
Sometimes the hardest part of climbing at the Pant...
view of first pullout from Panty Wall
panoramic from Panty Wall
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 20, 2004
This wall is nice, and has a lot of moderate well protected lines. It's a nice place for a novice sport leader to do some 8's, which is probably why it is so crowded. Still, it is worth a visit and if you can hit it on a weekday or moderate weather day there might not be a line for one of the more obscure lines there... The harder lines are not typically crowded, but don't expect to be alone.
Apr 9, 2006
The climbs were great for beginning lead climbers. Although they were all pretty similar in structure, they were fun to do. I went shortly before and after the Rendezvous and it wasn't too packed, but there were enough people to where the rests between climbs got a little long. All of the routes definitely are well protected
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 31, 2006
A great place to knock out a lot of pitches. Pretty easy to log a dozen routes in a half day. A good choice in winter months.
|By Malcolm Daly|
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 28, 2008
I looks like the pine tree at the base of the Panty Wall blew down on Christmas day, 2008.
|By Christopher Michaelson|
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Sep 28, 2009
I visited Panty Wall on 9/27/2009.
Mike - yes, I concur that the tree is no longer standing. Climbers should *not* look for the tree when trying to find the route.
Tyson - you rock for posting the GPS coordinates and Google map. I wish we had these for all routes in Red Rock (many of these areas are difficult to locate).
As for Panty Wall itself, call me paranoid, but I decided to abort my climbs. The routes do look good, but I absolutely refuse to climb an area where my belayer is at risk of slipping or falling ... with no option of anchoring in. The ramp is downward and outward sloping, and made of slick sandstone. If you take a wrong step, you can easily fall off of the ramp and into a 15-20 foot crevace below (or up to 30' if you climb the right-most routes). There are no bolts in which to clip your belayer, and there is NOWHERE to place a cam, nut, sling, etc., at the base of the routes. Basically, your belayer's anchor point becomes the first bolt on the route, which can be between 8-12 feet off of the deck.
|By Chris D|
From: the couch
Dec 27, 2009
We climbed most of the bolted routes here the other day and the area is a lot of fun, sunny, warm, and just a short walk from the parking area.
Not to be a contrarian, but I honestly can't imagine being concerned about anchoring your belayer here, at least for the sport routes. You'd have to be drunk to fall off the belay ledge, and there's only one route where the bolt is high enough to be concerned, and that's an easy start for anyone who can climb 5.8. Frankly, I was surprised to see people stick-clipping the first bolts here, but then I don't do a lot of sport climbing.
We *did* see another group's toprope anchor half-fail on a fall on one of the trad routes, which was very scary, but not as scary as watching them continue to climb on the extended anchor without inspecting it! Some people's kids...
|By Kurt Burt|
Jul 30, 2010
Chris, honestly you should really consider giving up climbing if the base of the panty wall has you on edge. This is what causes excessive bolting and reto bolting of our routes. Chris there is plenty of places to place gear along the base or boulder up and clip the first bolt if you are so inclined to jump off a big ledge. But to call off the day because an inability to think is why a lot of us locals are fighting a losing battle with bolts popping up all over the place on some of our most coveted and prized routes.
Great wall, low key, can be busy, I guide there often. Have fun and use your head all will be good.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 30, 2010
I should actually comment that if you have a rack with you, there's plenty of opportunity to anchor your belayer along the sloping part of the ledge, but i also agree with the other postersin that its unlikely any fall off the ledge would ever actually occur.
More to the point, Panty Wall is full of people trying to kill themselves- seriously, if you ever want to go somewhere where people do not know what they are doing and are completely unaware of their situation, panty wall is where its at. And to my knowledge there has never been anyone who has fallen off that ledge.
Nov 10, 2010
I guide there quite a bit as well, and often anchor my clients, since some of them are also uncomfortable with their positioning on that ledge. A #3 C4 is more than adequate to anchor a belayer to on the three right-hand routes. If that does not feel adequate, more gear can be had, or the use of a stick-clip recommended. As Mr. Burt stated, this is not an area that needs retro-belayer-anchors.
From: Las Vegas, nv
Jul 29, 2011
These routes are now sorted from left to right on the wall. The first 3 routes are on Panty Prow and the remainder are on Panty Wall. If anyone sees something out of order please let me know.
Dec 13, 2012
Out here on 12/11/2012; Tons of garbage on the way up to the wall, crowded full of Canadians (they are very nice people!), and to the asshats who crammed the Wag Bag dispenser full of garbage - You are jerks.