|165 page views|
The guidebook is kind enough to let you know that this one has a "very runout start for short people".
Mmmmmmm, if you read this after doing battle with the lieback of Realization you'll think twice before attempting the onsight. The flake is longer, steeper and more blunt-edged that its neighbor but sports the same number of bolts (2), the first one being out of reach for anyone shorter than Andre the Giant on a ladder with a stick clip...
A few holds on the face on both sides of the flake make the start go at mid-11. Expect bizarre insecure moves (slabbing, liebacking, OW technique) and don't botch it on the way to the 1st clip. Once established on top of the flake, wander up and left toward the mondo roof, placing small gear and getting pumped, the sustained nature of the climbing not exactly lending itself to fiddling with nuts (HA!). A rest can be had after the faint dihedral that leads to the corner of the roof. If you're feeling fresh, clip the last bolt and punch it on slightly easier ground, the spaced out gear and the pump keeping things exciting to the very end.
If you do Utahpia the rope will be up there. Choose between a proud and serious lead or a fun recon TR for a later attempt.
PS tackles the second leftmost flake of the Shield Wall. Look for a very high first bolt on the left of the flake and a huge roof (bypassed on the right) 2/3 of the way up.
Two bolts, a set of nuts and cams from tiny to BD#1.
Bolted anchor above the large roof.
|By greg t|
Jul 3, 2013
To avoid the OW start, do the Utahpia start ( which is great climbing ) and traverse left at the ledge after the first 3 bolts. This variation is definitely one of the best routes on the wall.