Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Wall Of Tiers
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Diagonal Connection T 
First Time, The T 
Golden T 
Lowe Route T 
Native Utard T 
Panty Shield T 
Realization T 
Retriever S 
Shield, The T 
Soak It Insideher T 
Stay Free T 
Sword, The T 
Utahpia T 
Unsorted Routes:

Panty Shield 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Fred Henion, summer 2001
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: Boissal on Jun 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The guidebook is kind enough to let you know that this one has a "very runout start for short people".

Mmmmmmm, if you read this after doing battle with the lieback of Realization you'll think twice before attempting the onsight. The flake is longer, steeper and more blunt-edged that its neighbor but sports the same number of bolts (2), the first one being out of reach for anyone shorter than Andre the Giant on a ladder with a stick clip...

A few holds on the face on both sides of the flake make the start go at mid-11. Expect bizarre insecure moves (slabbing, liebacking, OW technique) and don't botch it on the way to the 1st clip. Once established on top of the flake, wander up and left toward the mondo roof, placing small gear and getting pumped, the sustained nature of the climbing not exactly lending itself to fiddling with nuts (HA!). A rest can be had after the faint dihedral that leads to the corner of the roof. If you're feeling fresh, clip the last bolt and punch it on slightly easier ground, the spaced out gear and the pump keeping things exciting to the very end.

If you do Utahpia the rope will be up there. Choose between a proud and serious lead or a fun recon TR for a later attempt.


Location 

PS tackles the second leftmost flake of the Shield Wall. Look for a very high first bolt on the left of the flake and a huge roof (bypassed on the right) 2/3 of the way up.


Protection 

Two bolts, a set of nuts and cams from tiny to BD#1.
Bolted anchor above the large roof.



Comments on Panty Shield Add Comment
Show which comments
By greg t
Jul 3, 2013

To avoid the OW start, do the Utahpia start ( which is great climbing ) and traverse left at the ledge after the first 3 bolts. This variation is definitely one of the best routes on the wall.