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Panty Wall
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Cover My Buttress T,TR 
Eat My Shorts T 
Edible Panties T,TR 
Granny Panties TR 
Last Panty, The S 
Panty Line T,TR 
Panty Mime S 
Panty Prow S 
Panty Raid T 
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Silk Panties S 
Thong T 
Tighty Whities TR 
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Viagra Falls S 
Victoria's Secret TR 
Wedgie S 

Panty Raid 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten, Nick Nordblum 1987
Page Views: 5,781
Submitted By: John Hegyes on Aug 15, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (117)
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Photograph by Mason Miller

Description 

This single pitch trad line on the Panty Wall is to the left of the popular sport routes on the main face. The climb begins on the left side of the face, near where the pine tree used to be. It heads straight up the face to a small ceiling produced by the transition to the black varnished plates. Climb the left margin of an orange section to a thin right leaning crack to a two-bolt anchor on top.


Protection 

Standard rack



Photos of Panty Raid Slideshow Add Photo
Joe climbs Panty Raid
Joe climbs Panty Raid
Shayne Durfee on a panty raid, Photo by Adam Clark
Shayne Durfee on a panty raid, Photo by Adam Clark
Absolutely incredible sunset. Top-roping
Absolutely incredible sunset. Top-roping
panty raiding
panty raiding
Heady runout leads to the crack above.
Heady runout leads to the crack above.
another view of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: another view of the climb.
Lock and pull on panty raid
Lock and pull on panty raid
Chris H on Panty Raid
Chris H on Panty Raid
Chris H using the hands free head jamb <br />Panty Raid, Panty wall, RR
Chris H using the hands free head jamb
Panty Raid,...
looking down the route
looking down the route
Fred Batliner leading. (c) Scott Nomi.
Fred Batliner leading. (c) Scott Nomi.
Our friend George.
Our friend George.
Comments on Panty Raid Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 7, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

this is 5.10 in Swain, but it's really not. .9+ is a more accurate rating- really good.

just bring a set of stoppers and sew it up, no cams needed.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 31, 2006

Agreed. Nuts only!!

By cassondra
From: las vegas, NV
Apr 30, 2009

Makes a great TR solo. The rock is beautifully varnished. The route is very steep at the top.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 18, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Route is overhanging at the top - great moves on the upper varnished section.

By NickinCO
From: colorado
Apr 18, 2011

Led this yesterday, I agree nuts only. The crux felt significantly harder than 5.9 to me, more like 10a/b. The rest of the route was definitely 5.9 though and protects well with wires everywhere. I couple people I was with top roped it afterwards and it seemed significantly easier for the shorter climber in our party.

By Canon
Dec 13, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

5.10a in my book! Ridiculously awesome, good stances to fish in nuts and oogle the sport climbers on the Panty Wall. Lots of nuts. I placed a .3 and .5 camalot pretty much for kicks and they were not ideal placements. Nuts. Nuts. Nuts.

Mantling off of the varnish onto the soft slab above seemed to be the hardest move! Brah!

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Best route on the wall by far. Great pro, cool moves, if you miss the key toe hold it is 10a lockoff near the top, otherwise probably a little easier.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 26, 2013

This route really does take nuts well, but one thing to keep in mind before you set and jet is that if you have any doubts at all that you may fall at the crux, you should have at least one cam or oppositional nut in. My partner (who was quite competent and no rookie) zippered several pieces--up to his single cam placement--during a fall at the crux. I think the position of the belayer in relation to the wall doesn't help.

By Tyson W.
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Apr 12, 2013

An excellent climb with mostly passive pro and a clear and defined crux at the top. Just a couple notes:

I climbed this at the end of march this year and there was what appeared to be a fixed nut right at the crux. Getting to clip this took a lot of spice away from an excellent and aesthetic route. Hopefully someone takes the time to remove this piece so the route is clean again. I was with a big party on a busy Saturday, so I didn't even try to remove it, but it looked pretty buried. Not a local, so I have no idea how long it has been there.

The party before us was doing TR laps on it, and they did not extend the anchors over the edge. The rope drag looked horrendous, the lady was literally putting all of her body weight on the rope to pull in slack. Beyond drag, ropes over edges = bad. The anchors are pretty far back there, I brought a 30ft cord and still had to extend the power point with runners to get a good TR situation.

By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Oct 2, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Classic, memorable, and engaging! Definitely been a minute since I had to stay at a stance fiddling nuts around...wait, what?


All jokes aside, this thing is outstanding and very engaging. More trad than rad, but still pretty effin cool. Agree with the Handren guide's 3/3 stars on it. Classic! Had this route been put up a few years later, I would almost expect the name to be Deez Nutz.