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Pantomime 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Kevin Jaramillo Evan Belknap
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 481
Submitted By: KevJ on May 26, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Topo for Pantomime and Cabron

Description 

I soloed a route named Cabron in Echo Canyon years ago which had a section of aid. I revisited a couple years later and freed a line I named Pantomime which climbs in and out of Cabron. 3 Pitches located south of Westeron Wynde. Pitch 1-Starts on a sw facing slab at the mouth of a large Gully. Look for horizontal slots and sneaky gear leading up through a bulge (5.10+) with a stance and thin crack above it... send the bulge to the stance protect the seam and work up and left to a belay stance below a dead tree. P2 5.9 Climb up left to a bolt (cabron) then straight up some cracks and hollow sounding blocks on a nice face avoiding a thin seam (cabron) by trending right then back left and up to a ledge and belay below a roof and corner. P3 5.9 climb the right side of the roof past a large chockstone to a handcrack and the summit.


Location 

South of Westeron Wynde


Protection 

standard Sandia rack nothing bigger than a BD#2



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By KevJ
Dec 12, 2013

I believe the new Sandia guidebook by Mick Schine has this route listed as Cabron or something confusing...Cabron is a AID route. The 5.10 free line is called Pantomime and starts in the gulley across from A Date With Death. Cabron starts to the left of the wide crack which is left of Pantomime.

By Mick S
From: Sandia Park, NM
Dec 12, 2013

It's an aid route unless you free climb it, which we did, which is what is described in the guide. It's called Cabron in the guide since that is what you named it. You are also given credit for the FA, aid climb or free climb. BTW, I contacted you via email after we free climbed it (many years ago), since at that time I didn't know who did the FA. We added a bolt and pin to our free variation (NOT to the aid sections), and had I known who did the FA, I would have contacted you first. At the time you didn't have a problem with it, and I don't believe you had done Pantomime, or at least you didn't mention it. It's a nice section of stone, however you climb it.

By KevJ
Feb 17, 2014

Nice work on the free variation you guys did Mick! Apologies for any confusion. I guess it was kind of a team effort creating those lines between all of us and John Kear as well.

I had forgotten about your bolts until I read your comment. I now remember seeing the bolts when I went back with Evan to do Pantomime. They looked like they are to left of where I went at the top when I did Cabron. I had stayed in the crack system. So, I was thinking of your line as it's own variation not knowing what all you guys climbed. No hard feelings about the bolts on the first pitch. I ran that out pretty good when I did it and doubt many people would want to do the same. I did Cabron years ago & in a day. Thats why I aided that short section wanting to stay on the nicer stone.

Seems like people can pick any variation they feel like in that area now. Great for the excellent cragging people can do in Echo Canyon. Nice work on the guidebook Mick and thank you for creating it.

By Mick S
From: Sandia Park, NM
Feb 18, 2014

Kevin, just to clarify, I only added one bolt, on the variation to the last pitch, which turns the 5.10+ roof. I also added a fixed pin to the free climbing left of the A2 section. Nice work on those routes, they have great climbing.