One of the classic overhanging, juggy Kurt Albert routes. Very easy to get lost on - so print the picture when you decide to do this. This very pumpy route climbs on nothing but jugs, but due to the million possibilities, you might end up falling anyway. Should you do so, make sure your belayer knows how to do a dynamic belay because slamming into the wall when falling off the top isn't very pleasant. The crux is the pump, but also knowing where to go is key. SPOILER: When at the last bolt, it's best to use the big undercling jub that you can see from the ground with your right hand, then swing up to the jug immediately right of the bolt with your left, then pinch the left side of that same hold with your right and step to the left. That'll get you out of the overhang which makes clipping that 5th bolt difficult. Climb up MUCH easier rock to the top.
Furthest route to the right. The start is marked with the name and an arrow pointing straight up. Climb this up and around to the first bolt. Study the photo before getting on!
5 bolts to anchor
BETA PHOTO: Panische Zeiten follows the wandering yellow line....
Me trying Panische Zeiten.
I couldn't resist uploading this cool silhouette m...
|By Matthias Lang|
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sweet route. Hardest part is definitely to figure out which jugs to grab. Some of the obvious ones are crap, some hidden/small ones are way better than they look.