More than crack, this is face climbing on seams with a few jams sprinkled here and there. A #5 or #7 stopper (I can't remember-might be either) bombproofs the pump crux.
Few attempt onsight; most will TR to at least preview the stout moves and scanty pro (in places)
Just right of Bottomless Topless is this fantastic "face" with seams. Boulder out the bottom and keep fighting the off camber pumpy moves to the anchors.
Thin is in....anchors on top.
Eliot just below the crux section.
|Comments on Panic in Detroit
From: THA WEST COAST
Sep 1, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b
Incredibly fun route! Might have goofed up the sequence, but the mono digit finger lock dyno to the rail was awesome! Thoughtful, pumpy, techy, and powerful, this route rocks!
Nov 14, 2011
#8 stopper for the crux, not 5 or 7....will hold a dump truck