Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED!MORE INFO >>>
The access for Mendoza Canyon is via the good graces of the owner of the King Anvil Ranch you pass through to get to the canyon.
Update from Jeff Mayhew: 3-20-10
Mendoza Canyon access will still be open through King's Anvil Ranch from September 1 through March 1, as usual. The ranch owner, John King, is considering allowing foot access again at the original parking area, (see Approach Map,) from Sept. 1 through Dec. 1. After that he may re-post the No Trespassing sign, but may still allow foot access through the alternate parking area at the north end of the canyon's mouth, (see map.) Legally set traps are throughout the area so the suggestion is to leave the dogs at home. Regardless of this information, please obey all posted signs in the area. Access is still hanging by a thread!
After talking to Game and Fish, State Land Dept., and BLM it is clear that Mr. King has every right to block access at any time... and he is ready to at the drop of a hat. Fortunately, there are only about 15 of us that even go out there, so we mainly have to worry about the random rabble-rousers, (now there's a good name for a climb!)
Thanks for all the support and feel free to contact me. Jeff Mayhew (user JMayhew on this site)
Update from Jeff Mayhew 10-18-10
As of 10/2010 the access along the dirt road leading from the "original parking" at the small corral (see approach map) is still signed "No Trespassing." Please respect that!
The "alternate parking" shown on the map still allows foot access along an old, faint road. This eventually connects to the main dirt road before the pond, but Mr. King had said last spring that access was permitted at that point, as long as people respected the private property. Be sure to remember that fork--it can be tricky to see when you're hiking out tired... and possibly in the dark!
There is still an old, hand written note in the sign-in box stating access to Mendoza is closed. This was in there before Mr. King gave "us" permission to access via this alternate roadway.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10): We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
BETA PHOTO: SOP on left. UB on right. 1st pitches of both not ...
Description
Pangaea Wall is one of the smaller, less obvious features in Mendoza canyon. Hidden behind Elephant Dome, Pangaea Wall faces south toward the drainage separating it from Table Dome. The drainage has created growth that makes the approach more difficult but also trees large enough to provide shade at the base of the routes.
The most well known route on the rock is Song of Pangea (5.9, A2) which climbs through the large roof in 5 pitches. Unemployment Blues (5.8) climbs the obvious left facing corner and offers a less committing choice with bolted rap stations (no chains) at the top of both pitches.
To descend from the top of the formation traverse right and scramble down a 4th class gully to a large ledge. This is the top Unemployment Blues, two 50m rappels will reach the ground from here.
Getting There
From the reservoir followed a marked trail west toward the canyon between Table Dome and Elephant Dome. The trail follows a creek bed and shortly before reaching Table Dome turns left towards Table or stays above the drainage on the right side. Stay right and cross slabs west and up to the base of Roof Wall. Follow a trail along the base Roof Wall. Turn a corner and continue up a steep section to the next wall (Pangaea Wall). It can be recognized by a large left facing corner and huge roof above.
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