Pangaea Wall Climbing
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GPS: |
31.98512, -111.5152 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 1,868 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Micah on Feb 16, 2003 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED! Dogs Not allowed
Details
The access for Mendoza Canyon is via the good graces of the owner of the King Anvil Ranch you pass through to get to the canyon. Dogs are not allowed per land owner request.
READ THIS DOCUMENT AND OBEY!
concernedclimbers.com/Mendo…
Update from Jeff Mayhew 3.12.14:
Extended Access Info
Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at mwalton@azgfd.gov to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.
You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.
Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
READ THIS DOCUMENT AND OBEY!
concernedclimbers.com/Mendo…
Update from Jeff Mayhew 3.12.14:
Extended Access Info
Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at mwalton@azgfd.gov to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.
You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.
Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
Description
Pangaea Wall is one of the smaller, less obvious features in Mendoza canyon. Hidden behind Elephant Dome, Pangaea Wall faces south toward the drainage separating it from Table Dome. The drainage has created growth that makes the approach more difficult but also trees large enough to provide shade at the base of the routes.
The most well known route on the rock is Song of Pangea (5.9, A2) which climbs through the large roof in 5 pitches. Unemployment Blues (5.8) climbs the obvious left facing corner and offers a less committing choice with bolted rap stations (no chains) at the top of both pitches.
To descend from the top of the formation traverse right and scramble down a 4th class gully to a large ledge. This is the top Unemployment Blues, two 50m rappels will reach the ground from here.
The most well known route on the rock is Song of Pangea (5.9, A2) which climbs through the large roof in 5 pitches. Unemployment Blues (5.8) climbs the obvious left facing corner and offers a less committing choice with bolted rap stations (no chains) at the top of both pitches.
To descend from the top of the formation traverse right and scramble down a 4th class gully to a large ledge. This is the top Unemployment Blues, two 50m rappels will reach the ground from here.
Getting There
From the reservoir followed a marked trail west toward the canyon between Table Dome and Elephant Dome. The trail follows a creek bed and shortly before reaching Table Dome turns left towards Table or stays above the drainage on the right side. Stay right and cross slabs west and up to the base of Roof Wall. Follow a trail along the base Roof Wall. Turn a corner and continue up a steep section to the next wall (Pangaea Wall). It can be recognized by a large left facing corner and huge roof above.
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