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Pandora's Pebble Pinching Party Palace 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: [Pat Thompson & Azenda Cater]
Page Views: 3,404
Submitted By: jeff mcnair on May 18, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Matt climbs in the Palace on a nice Spring day

Description 

This is a great intro to the type of climbing in this area. There are lots o' little knobby stuff to edge on. Trust your feet. As with most of the climbs in this area, the views are great from the top of the towers.


Protection 

Nine bolts to a two bolt anchor.



Photos of Pandora's Pebble Pinching Party Palace Slideshow Add Photo
"Pandora's Pebble Pinching Party" <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"Pandora's Pebble Pinching Party"
Photo by Blitzo.
Base of Pandora's (foreground), Vestery (middle), and a climber on the Steeple
Base of Pandora's (foreground), Vestery (middle), ...
Travis, working the route. This was his first climb, ever.
Travis, working the route. This was his first clim...
Erik Marr at the horiztonal ledge on Pandora's
Erik Marr at the horiztonal ledge on Pandora's
Ernie leading out on his Pebble Pinching adventure
Ernie leading out on his Pebble Pinching adventure
Ernie leading Pandora's Party
Ernie leading Pandora's Party
Lora Woods at the bulge on Pandora's....
BETA PHOTO: Lora Woods at the bulge on Pandora's....
Approaching the top. Photo by MaryLynn McSorley.
Approaching the top. Photo by MaryLynn McSorley.
Evan Ratzen, Dominating the Quadruple P.
Evan Ratzen, Dominating the Quadruple P.
Comments on Pandora's Pebble Pinching Party Palace Add Comment
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By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
May 28, 2002

On saturday I was belaying my partner up this fine route when - ho! - the first bolt came spinning down my rope along with my quickdraw. The washer and nut went skipping down the hillside. Luckily I came prepared with wrench and we were able to replace and tighten the bolt.

We also found anchors that could use some tightening around the area.

It's a long cold winter up there and it takes its toll on the metal - use caution, don't ever trust just one bolt and have fun...

By Brian T. Wandzilak
Aug 30, 2002

I agree with the route comments here. An excellent example of Monastery style climbing. Probably the most vertical of all the routes in this area, which makes it a bit more challenging than other routes of the same grade. But the satisfaction at the top is worth it. Look for and trust your feet, you'll need them. Have fun!!

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
May 23, 2003

Fun route! Very typical Monastery climbing. Nice shady belay while you can climb in the sun. Getting to the first bolt might be crux, after that relax and enjoy the pebble pinching party.

By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
May 31, 2003

I'd agree that the 5.7 move seemed to be getting to the first bolt. I also found myself crimping down on the pebbles and crystals more than actually pinching. (Lotta Balls in Red Rocks? THAT seemed to be a pinchy sequence of moves.) Although "Pandora's Pebble Crimping Party Palace" doesn't have quite the same alliteration appeal....

By Jason Shatek
Jul 28, 2005

I'll have to agree the crux is right off the ground. I believe I went right off the ground and crossed over left to the little ledge to clip the bolt. This is a good quick climb if you're just trying to beat the weather and get in another climb :)

By Caleb Phillips
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 16, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A lovely climb. I have to agree with Tom - compared to other climbs in the area, this is a pretty stiff 5.7. It's harder than Monastic Groove (5.8), for instance. The first clip is okay, but is a little dicey - I don't know if it's the crux, but it's a hard first clip compared to the rest of the route.