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This route is located between "The Great White Icicle" and "Pentapitch" area. There are two approaches. From pentapitch parking, take the Wasatch climbing guide description for the waterfall area. Once you get to the "icicle," head up canyon(east) past "ape index" slab following the base. Approximately 50-100 yards further you will see a shallow right facing dihedral. The slab with bolts just east is the start. The other approach heads up(east) the bike/hike trail turning right(south) 25 yards before a black pipe crosses the trail and before the secret garden bolders. Link "high school party areas" and trails crossing small streams, heading southeast up toward major talus. Where the talus meets a low toung of the cliff head down canyon(west) along the base until you see bolts.
P1. Climb good friction to an overlap and leftward traverse into a layaway flake. Finish with a bulge. 9 bolts. 90' 5.10+ P2. A bit contrived! Climb loose 4th class to the base of a 50' slab. Do 5 bolts and supplemental gear to the chains. 5.9- 110ish' (move the belay down and across the gully to a tree ledge, not disturbing "Pandora's Blocks") P3. From the tree ledge chimney behind a bolder and do mixed gear and bolts angling up and right thru roofs. A black alien takes the "sting" out below bolt 2. 80' 5.10+ P4. Do a couple bolts up the dihedral and move out and right angling to another crack system. Take this system thru the big roof. 80' 5.10+ brass helpful Decent. Rap the route w/ 60 meter.
1-2 sets tcu's (1 oo alien or grey tcu)camelots to #11 set brass nuts1 set nuts9 QDsbunch o long runners60 meter rope
E Rock following P1
E Rock leading past the broken rock on P2 and into...
|Comments on Pandora's Blocks
|By Anonymous Coward|
Oct 18, 2005
The Last rap is not off the P1 anchors but an independent set to the east. A 60 meter will not reach P1 anchors from P2!!!
|By Anonymous Coward|
Dec 8, 2005
I climbed "Stifflers Mom" and then I did this route in the fall of 05. If "Stifflers" is getting three stars this should get 5!
From: The land of steady habits
Apr 27, 2006
I heard the guys who did this route are famous French climbers named Jaques and Gerome and it only took them 2.5 hours to establish this route.
May 1, 2006
No, they actually typify the American twenty something climber - they beg for food, but scoff if not organic, only smoke the finest, drive SUVs and get pissed off about gas prices, and complain about the cost of climbing gear while drinking $9 Lattes! Cheers gentlemen, I'm proud you...
Sep 5, 2008
Very fine route! A must do!!
Jul 16, 2012
anybody know who the FA party was/is? thx
|By earl mcalister|
Sep 10, 2012
The 3rd to last bolt on pitch 2 has been flattened by rock fall. couldnt fit a nano biner through but was able to girth hitch a very thin spectra sling (smaller than mammut, which probably wont fit). The bolt is skippable as the next isnt too far away. This route bested my partner and I yesterday. I found it very difficult for .10+. Couldn't climb the first pitch clean at all, even on top rope. couldnt make it past 6th bolt (hard move left) but was able to sneak right around corner with g ear. we bailed at the 3rd bolt of the 3 rd pitch after I took a pendulum that sent me through a small tree. could not figure out beta here, whether you go straight up (very difficult) or traverse right. If someone knows the beta please pm me. I was stumped! twice as hard as stifflers. which I found casual in comparison.