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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Hellgate Cliffs
> Tower One
Pandora
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.3 from 13
votes
Routes in Tower One
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(no name?) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Armed and Hammered S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bollocks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Brainless Conformants S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cause for Alarm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Contrapasso S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dark Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gatekeeper, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Heathens S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hell is for Children S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hell Yes! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Hell's Angel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Holy Hell it's Hot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Little Hellion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Medussa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pandora T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rezin Scraper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Satan's Choice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Second Voyage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Shelter from the Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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sinbad T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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What the Hell S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whiskey Bent & Hellgate Bound S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Kimber Almond and Tony Calvert July 1995 |
| Page Views: | 3,496 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | tenesmus on Jul 20, 2010 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
3 cruxes. Start in the easy, low angle crack, moving up the the initial vertical headwall for an awkward boulder problem with about 10 different variations on holds that never seem all that great (or are really huge, depending on what you found) At the top of the dihedral, move right to a great rest and get psyched for the next crux. The steep face above is why you came and sports long moves on enormous holds, with a full bag of sport climbing tricks that I didn't expect to use. The more creative you are, the easier it gets and powering through is far less fun. Crux 3 starts with the fist crack over left in a dihedral, clipping the final two bolts and pulling the lip to the chains.
Location
Just right of Medussa. Its initially hard to see the bolts on the headwall, but its all in there. Look to the white roof for the middle crux. Easy to scope this out and even get to the anchors from Medussa.
Protection
Probably 3 pieces are fine and only to protect the easy but runnout moves before each crux. I liked .4 or a .5, 1 and 3 camalots but you might want something slightly different. Loads of very long draws and runners - enough to cover the 10 bolts whatever gear you choose and the chains. It helps to have 2 or 3 super long runners to straighten the rope out.
Photos
8 Comments