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Apple Cider
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Apple Cider 
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Heros Are Hard To Find 
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Pandora 
Punta Magna 
Slaves, The 
Sweeney's Special 
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Pandora 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Marcus Garcia
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 626
Submitted By: Tim Kuss on Apr 4, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Is this Pandora? P1 felt 5.11b/c.

Description 

This is a great new route, taking a nice line to the top of the cliff. Bouldery start and continuous techy moves characterize the first pitch. This route pushes the mind a little after the second bolt then turns more moderate for the second pitch. Can be done in one pitch.


Location 

This lies right of Apple Cider and crosses Tennis Shoe Traverse. Face climb following seams to a shallow corner and a belay station. The second half follows the shallow corner which becomes a roof and crack system which is followed to the top. Descend from fixed anchor (70m rope).


Protection 

The first pitch is all bolts. The second takes some gear with a few bolts.



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By Marcus garcia
From: Durango, Co.
Aug 22, 2010

This route was fun putting up ground up style.

By Dylan Weldin
From: Austin, Texas
Mar 11, 2012

Is this the first bolted line to the right of Punta? If so, what is the rating of P1 (ends with an awkward mantle onto the ledge)?

By Erik Durgin
Apr 18, 2012

Yeah Dylan, I believe it is the first bolted line right of Punta. Most people seam to agree that the first pitch is around .12a. I remember the second pitch was somewhere in the .10+/.11- range? But it's been a few years and a couple hundred beers since I last climbed it.