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Pandemonium 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 340'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Denis Luther & James Debella 2007
Page Views: 277
Submitted By: Greg Kuchyt on Aug 29, 2010
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Pandemonium offers a broad range of climbing styles in three distinct pitches with a noteworthy last pitch. You can approach Pitch 2 by various routes (Puppies on Edge, Hang 'Em High, Group Therapy, or Discord). As well, you could also take P2 of Discord to the ramp system of The Snake and meet up with the third pitch.

    Pitch 1 (5.9): Start 20' right of Group Therapy, next to the large boulder. Work up a bulge to the wide crack. Up the crack then the slab above to easier terrain to the headwall and the bolted anchor.
    Pitch 2 (5.8 PG): Step right from the fixed anchor to the zig-zag finger crack that opens up to an off-width. Climb the crack/off-width up to a vegetated section of the cliff and climb a short right-facing corner until you reach a short headwall with a mass of vegetation on your left. Step 10' left through the vegetation and climb up sparsely protected face climbing following the weakness up to the low-angle ramp of The Snake. Move left to the large pine tree with a fixed anchor.
    Pitch 3 (5.10b): Move right ~15 feet to the groove with a low bolt. Work up the groove passing two bolts to a stance below the overhanging corner (potential 3-4" piece). Climb the overhanging corner (potentially wet) past a bolt (also small TCU placement) and then gain the ledge below the arete. Work left to a stance and a bolt. Work up the face (crux) to three more bolts, past two horizontals. At the last bolt (second horizontal) step right and climb the arete to the slab, and then to the top.


    Location 

    Start: 20' right of Group Therapy
    Descent: Rappel with two ropes from the fixed anchor at the top of the third pitch, trending right to the fixed anchor (P2 of Discord - ~130'). From here make a ~180' rappel to the ground.
    Alternative Descent: Walk climber's left and descend via the descent gully.


    Protection 

    Standard rack to 4".
    Pitch 1: Two bolt anchor
    Pitch 2: Fixed anchor on tree
    Pitch 3: 7 bolts, fixed anchor on tree



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    By Greg Kuchyt
    Aug 29, 2010

    Pitch 3 will take an optional 3-4" piece and small C3 size pieces. I'm not sure if this pitch is supposed to be lead entirely on draws or not. The stemming corner was a little wet when I did it, the above pieces helped calm my mental anxiety.