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Roadie belaying the 2nd pitch 5.9 traverse
This four pitch route is on the left end of the ice cream parlor.
P1 climb a thin crack 5.10 to a series of bolt protected face moves. Belay at the fixed anchors on the ledge
P2 Follow a 5.9 crack then traverse right on face moves to a ledge in the corner. Use hand size gear for the belay.
P3 Crux. Climb the slot corner to an odd stemming move. Clip a bolt at the crux, but take a few small nuts for pro too. Pass a rap anchor and continue up and left on a thin flake with bolts for gear. Belay at the double bolted ledge. A 60 meter rap on two ropes will get you back to earth from here.
P4 Climb the obvious OW crack, at 5.10, up from the belay to a fixed anchor. From here it is 50 meters down to the anchor midway up P3. From their a double rope rap will get you down.
This is at the far left end of the ice cream parlor. Its labeled as route 1 in the photo.
Standard desert rack with doubles on most cams plus some smaller nuts and a few quickdraws.
Pandemic, Kura Buran, and Rattler.
An alternative ...
Pandemic Topo and Epedemic Var.
|By Lynn S|
May 14, 2008
I think the crux is the bulging hand crack on the last pitch, more like 5.11 to me. The moves on the previous pitch seemed much easier than pulling through the bulge. Fun route that gets you to the rim. You can link pitch 1 and 2.
|By Eric Odenthal|
Dec 9, 2009
started this route late in the day. Pitch 1 and 2 make you think... the traverse to the belay for the second on pitch 2 is sketch. I headed up the blank corner to the first set of anchors. Great stemming moves. we bailed with 2 60m ropes from there. need to finish this one.
|By jason malczyk|
From: moab, UT
Sep 27, 2012
A single set of BD cams from 00 C3 to a number five would do the job, no nuts needed. If anything a extra four for the last pitch is all you would need and the number five is for the last pitch only.