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Unsorted Routes:

Pancho Villa Rides Again 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Wright
Page Views: 5,215
Submitted By: Danny Inman on Apr 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Rapping from the top.

Description 

Awesome bolted crack climbing.

P1 - 10c head up and left of a large block, pull a small bulge and continue up and into a finger crack. (30m)

P2 - 10b follow cracks up to a big flake, step left into a hand crack (30m)

P3 - 10c Traverse out right a ways and then up, pull an exciting bulge (30m)

P4 - 5.9 Chimney up to gain cracks that lead up and right. Belay up and right (around the corner) from the obvious rap anchor.

P5 - 10a Broken terrain up the top.

Descend via rappelling from the top. Note: when rapping you will end up using anchors on Uncle Crusy's, putting you uphill from the start of the climb. Basically don't leave your pack, shoes, etc at the first belay, as I did, b/c it is a huge pain in the ass to get back over to the first belay.


Location 

This climb is located on the lower end of Motta Wall, a couple routes to the right (up hill) from Snot Girlz.


Protection 

Standard Potrero rack, book recommends 14 draws.



Photos of Pancho Villa Rides Again Slideshow Add Photo
P1 belay
P1 belay
Pancho follows the line using the crack to the left of the block.
Pancho follows the line using the crack to the lef...
Bat on P.3 hanging out.
Bat on P.3 hanging out.
Stef on the finger crack of P1
Stef on the finger crack of P1
Stemming up high on Pancho Villa, Conservatilly...
Stemming up high on Pancho Villa, Conservatilly...
Found the route :)
Found the route :)
Mike and I hanging out at the top enjoing the view.
Mike and I hanging out at the top enjoing the view...
There is a lot of fun Limestine crack on this climb!  Mike following and having fun.
There is a lot of fun Limestine crack on this clim...
Comments on Pancho Villa Rides Again Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 31, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A 70m rope on this route and most other newer routes at the Potrero, such as Treasure of the Sierra Madre, is highly recommended, if not required, for safe rappelling. We climbed this route on double 60s and had to rap on them because rapping a single 60m rope came up short on a couple pitches. Thankfully, you one can always clip into a protection bolt and rap off a leaver-biner if the rope comes up short but it's scary getting that close to the end of the rope and is somewhat disappointing to leave a biner. Rapping on double ropes works but there so much vegetation next to the routes that having tons of rope to pull can be a pain.

By Robert MacKinnon
Jun 5, 2008

The fifth pitch has two options: the right one as described above and the left one, which we thought it was about 11b. Both are long but have intermediate anchors to rappel with a single rope.

By Misha Tselman
From: New York, NY
Apr 25, 2010

According to Magic Ed, the fifth pitch variation is an 5.11c (goes left, while the 5.10a goes right)
This last pitch is long and even with a 70 meter rope you either need to downclimb a bit after rappel or use intermediate anchors.

By Christine Page
From: San Francisco
Nov 30, 2010

The person who leads the odd numbered pitches gets the more comfortable belay stances.