Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,167 total · 8/month
Shared By: harihari on May 14, 2012
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


3 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Camping DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A much more interesting way to get to the Buttress crux pitch or Butt-Face than the crappy rambly standard approach. The final 10c pitch is stellar!

P1: 5.10b 35m Make easy moves up the v-slot past the bush onto a slab. Head up and left past a bolt, up and right through a small roof, then hard right to two bolts.

P2: 5.9 25m Step right, go up a groove, then hard right across a slab (pin + bolt) and up to two bolts by an overlap.

P3: 5.10b 25m Do a tough move over (or aid using bolts; sometimes wet) the overlap and head across the slab. You will eventually see a tree with old slings.

P4: 5.7 10m Go straight up to a bolt belay on a cedar.

(You can easily link P3 and P4 with judicious use of slings)

P5: 5.10c 40m The money pitch. Step left and up a short handcrack. (The awesome hanging flake rightward is 11+). Traverse left into another crack (easy), then stem, layback, mantle and jam up the looong beautiful varied corner to chains.

Walk to climber's right to a smorgasbord of cracks from 10c to 12a.

If you want to do Butt-Face (5.9) instead of the Buttress 5.10c crux pitch, scramble 10 fet down from the Buttress terrace, then rap 20m off a good tree and you will be at the base of Butt-Face.

Location Suggest change

Start about 25 feet to climber's right of where the standard Squamish Buttress 5.9 pitch starts. As you move right along the trail, look up, and you will see a V-block hanging in a small v-slot with a small tree just above the block. Scramble up ten feet to a comfy stance (2 trees) to belay.

Protection Suggest change

2x Camalots from .3 to #1
1x Camalots #2 and #3
long slings

Photos

- No Photos -
loading