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[No longer a nailing route, this has been freed at 5.13a]
Best nailing route at smith. A3 in the Watts guide. As always aid ratings are subjective.
P1 - 4th class - Scramble up to the 4th class ledge, belay from two bolts.
P2 - 5.6 A2+ - Free climb up to the aid cracks, begin on clean aid with aliens, aid past retro bolt belay into a shallow diheadral, belay from bolts, below roof.
P3 - 5.4 A2+ - Pull the roof on a fixed KB and continue up the crack, the rock gets rotten but there are a few 3 bolts and a belay 20ft below the top. Aid past below free climb through the killer top out, belay from juniper tree. (only one bolt is original from the FA)
The biggest steepest part of the Mesa Verde Wall
Full aid rack to with cams to 2inches. Sawed angles and beaks are helpfull.
|By Peter Franzen|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 17, 2011
This has been freed at 5.13a.
FA: Tim Garland
|By Jack Herer|
Nov 27, 2012
Only the first aid pitch was freed with added bolts (next to a crack) and moving original bolts to satisfy personal needs. The entire route is still an aid climb.
|By Tim Garland|
Aug 14, 2013
Jack is correct. This route can still be aid climbed, just like any route. However as posted above, please no nailing. Original nailing is what tore up the seem in the soft rock to create the locks I used to climb this.