Palo Duro Canyon State Park 

I climbed at Palo Duro in the early 80's while at WT. I did a route I called "Werewolves of London" that went up a dihedral in a large wall on the left side of the canyon as you drive in. It went at about 5.8. Also on the left side I Did a good bit of bouldering, especially on a boulder that stood atop a pedestal about 6 ft tall, with the cap slanting up and left. A zig zag crack led up and right through the overhang to the top.

In December of 85 I made the first solo and first winter ascent of the Lighthouse. It was the 3rd ascent overall. The summit register was an old film can left by the 1969 first ascent party. Jack Tillinghast and friends made the second ascent (he was a Phys Ed teacher at WT). I used 10" nails with 2 links of chain on them to aid the route. The chain would not come off the nail head, and I could clip a biner through the second link. I went up the groove on the side facing the canyon wall to reach a small ledge and then traversed around onto the big ledge. Then went straight up to the top. I left all my nails and chain on the big ledge halfway up the tower. You could probably get to it by throwing a rope over it and jugging the rope. I don't imagine many folks have stood on top of it, as it was off limits to climbing. I knew that in winter, with snow on the ground, nobody was going to hike all the way in there to bother me.

In the 5 years I lived in the area, I never saw another climber. Just the odd rappeller now and then. Sounds like there is a much more active scene n these days.

The climbing in the canyon is seeing a renaissance this year. Old climbs are being rediscovered and entire new areas are being found. Traditional climbing is coming a long way with multiple lead-able crags being discovered. Bouldering is growing with at least one whole new area being established. The atmosphere is exciting and the climbing is getting more interesting. It seems that the climbing in the canyon can only get better!

Who was the first party that climbed the lighthouse?

I don't remember. You'd need to go up there and look in the film canister! The only reason I know about the 2nd ascent party is that I had Jack for an outdoor ed. class at WT, so I remember his name. One day he took us to a fantastic part of the canyon on private land several miles upstream of the park. We taught the others how to rappel on a beautiful shield of rock about 130 ft high. I did a mixed crack and face route there which has probably never been repeated. It was the biggest wall I ever found in the canyon. If you start at the amphitheater and go upstream there is a lot of rarely visited canyon to explore, and some good quality rock. Same goes for going downstream, but the walls were not as good. There are some really hard overhang routes in a narrow side canyon behind the big dirt cave in the lower canyon.

Yeah Jack and I use to fly into that spot there in the upper reaches of the canyon, in his Cessna 172 Skyhawk--made for a quick ride home at the end of the day when all the others were driving back around. I have climbed those cliffs numerous times, helping with all the outdoor living classes and canoe camping classes from 92-97. So much a good time. Climbing the house with nails and chain is quite the thing. Jack and Jack et.al. used the same technique back when. Sure worked well when I used it. I did get lazy and the last time we rigged a line up and over and did jug it. By far the easiest I have done. It is a great day trip and activity. Tell ya what. I have some time in two weeks. I will go back up there and see if the film can has survived... I missed Jack when he called the house tonight. I will call him back in the morning. I will tell him you say hey! He is sharp as a tack with people that have climbed after him teaching and such. I personally have been climbing in the Canyon proper and beyond for the last 30 years. It is a very special place. I am happy to see folks finally putting stories together about their outings there.

Cheers!

I believe the Lighthouse was first climbed in 1960 by Derrell Chandler and Geary McCaule before it was part of the state park.

Amarillo.com "A reminder sits atop the Lighthouse"

58AHSandies.com


Craghopper, I'm always looking for new routes down there, any beta is much appreciated! Also, if any of the names on here are wrong just let me know and I'll make sure they get changed.

I don't recommend climbing anything at all in palo duro. The rock is super soft and too much pressure on holds will definatly break them off. It's very likely a fall will pull any gear placed. I climbed a few routes in Indian springs area and that Rock is so soft you can carve your name with your finger in the stone. Super dangerous in my opinion, same goes for all the boulders. Not worth a climbing trip at all in my opinion, but if your in to that sort of thing. Climb on. Just be careful.

Just take a look at the old aid route and see how many blown out pieces done damage to the crack!

Yes the rock quality here is sub-par for the most part especially the cliffs, but I wouldn't go as far as saying "same goes for all the boulders too" unless you've inspected "all" of it. I have extensively found a lot of good climbable boulders out here and enjoy it. I agree it's not worth the trip unless its a short drive away. Bottom line though is climbing is always inherently dangerous, holds will break everywhere even Hueco and Yosemite and Palo Duro Canyon will offer some fun moderate climbing. Just be careful.

What are the common anchors on the roped routes? Gear, Trees and boulders I assume?

Trees mainly, but there are some that use gear and boulders. PDC offers a lot more quality and variety in its boulders then cliffs though.