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Routes in Universal Crag
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Dozey Brat V9-10 7C+ |
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Dr. West, Millionaire V7+ 7A+ R |
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Dream Machine S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Equator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fighting Irish S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Magna Headwall S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Palm Pilot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Rapid Eye Movement V6 7A PG13 |
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Switchback T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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X Marks The Start S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Jim Redo, bolted and modified by Mark Rolofson & John Baldwin |
| Page Views: | 2,732 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Jimmie Redo on Oct 27, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
First of all, let me say that I did not chip this route. I did not equip this route. It was an open project, and I just free climbed this route. I re-named the route to "Palm Pilot" from "Victoria's Secret". It ain't no secret, boys, ya chipped a hold. This route is on the far left side of the crag left of an open corner. It is an extremely overhanging arete.
Scramble up a 3rd class slab for 30 feet to the first bolt. Clip another bolt and move out left to a ledge where you can sit. The climbing basically starts here. Varied climbing for 2 bolts brings you to the first crux. Powerful slaps and a pinch to a chipped horn. It ain't over. One very big move and a bit of 5.12 bring you to the anchor. 24 moves...not a path.
Scramble up a 3rd class slab for 30 feet to the first bolt. Clip another bolt and move out left to a ledge where you can sit. The climbing basically starts here. Varied climbing for 2 bolts brings you to the first crux. Powerful slaps and a pinch to a chipped horn. It ain't over. One very big move and a bit of 5.12 bring you to the anchor. 24 moves...not a path.
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