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Palisades State Park

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the katrina boulders 
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Wounded Noggin 

Palisades State Park 


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Location: 43.6901, -96.5147 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 58,475
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jon Cannon on Oct 16, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Overview

Description 

The Split Rock Creek splits a band of Sioux Quartz just outside the town of Garretson, South Dakota, making for lots of climbing right off the water. Loads of picnickers will be strolling through the area during the summer.

The rock is not very good for friction but gets a wonderful pump due to the crimps and slopers. This place is good for experienced trad climbers as well as TRing. There are never ending crack systems through out the park. Great face climbs are Slandeross (5.12) , Debuant Farmers (5.12), King Olof (5.10) , Glimmer (5.10+) , Never Say Never (5.10) ,and Henry Aaron (5.7). The area saw bouldering development in 2009 and still holds potential for new problems. Great Boulder problems to check out are Contrivance (V5) , Necessary Contrivance (V4) , I Seam Stumped (V3) , Lithium CT (V2), and Head Hunters (V2). The area was developed from the likes of Greg Fossum, gary Johnson, Jim Slichter, Vern Olsen. It wasn't until Michael Madsen arrived in the mid 2000s and started developing boulders and climbs. Climbers of the mid to late 2000s were Jon Marek, Michael Madsen, Jade Hillestad, Mike Draewel. During the last couple of years climbers Jeff Johnson and Sam Smolinsky moved in and climbed the remaining cliffs. Find some good routes.


Getting There 

10 miles north of Interstate 90, off the Brandon exit (Exit 406). 25495 485th Avenue, Garretson, SD 57030-6117

www.sdgfp.info/Parks/CampMaps/LocationMaps/Palisades.pdf


189 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',61],['2 Stars',59],['1 Star',32],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',29],['5.7',32],['5.8',30],['5.9',23],['5.10',21],['5.11',8],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',29],['V4-5',10],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Palisades State Park:
Regular Route   V2 5+     Boulder   River Boulder
Grenada   V2 5+     Boulder   Bridge Boulder
Puppy Love   V3 6A     Boulder, 12'   Bridge Boulder
Hung Like A Horse   V3 6A     Boulder, 15'   A Taste Of Fontainebleau
Necessary Contrivance   V4 6B     Boulder   Bridge Boulder
I Seam Stumped   V4 6B     Boulder   Bridge Boulder
Contrivance   V5 6C     Boulder, 10'   Bridge Boulder
Garden Path   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 50'   South Wall
Henry Aaron   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     TR, 65'   Chockstone Tower
Passive Pro-gression   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Split creek cracks
Stepping Out   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   RattleSnake
The Bitch   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 65'   Chockstone Tower
Ms. U. Marty   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     TR, 30'   Hobgoblin's Hideout
The Son Of A Bitch   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 65'   Chockstone Tower
King Olaf   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR   King Rock
Cemetery Gates   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR   Harkor Tower
Little Miss Roundheels   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, TR   Chockstone Tower
Glimmer   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     TR   Harkor Tower
Debutant Farmers   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, TR   Positron
Aloha   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     TR, 65'   Chockstone Tower
Browse More Classics in Palisades State Park

Featured Route For Palisades State Park
The Great North Wall

Slandeross 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b  SD : Palisades State Park : Great North Wall
Slanderous is a pure face climb in Palisades. Start by climbing outside right of the cave, holds are surprising hard to get some being slick and others just not the best of quality. Move to the left when exiting the cave top. Slanderous follows an obvious Black streak down the Great North Wall. Best time to do it is on a sunny day in winter as you can belay from down below where as summer you top belay. First 2-3 moves are pure friction with tiny crimps and side holds. Towards the top you get a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Comments on Palisades State Park Add Comment
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By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Nov 12, 2010

Happy to see people start to explore this area more for bouldering. Want to get back and try some of the new stuff. Mike M? has been putting up a hard problems to attract a little more interest. I see him out there more than any other climber. Seems very knowledgeable and very friendly. I don't personally know him. He has been adding really good routes wish more did as well, I know it's hard but shoot, it'd be nice to have more hard problems in the vicinity.

By Amy Weed
Feb 8, 2011

Are there any sport routes in this area?

By Tane Owens
From: Pahrump, NV
May 26, 2012

It seems like there have been a lot of climbing additions to the park in the past few years. Is there any chance someone with current knowledge of the area can make additions or updates to the beta/park overview photo? This would definitely help me around the park, and I'm sure others would benefit from it as well.

By trisgo
From: Omaha, NE (at the moment)
Sep 27, 2012

I don't know, I guess it comes down to personal preference. I'd take Palisades over Blue Mounds anyday. There isn't as much climbing, but hearing the running water and being in the serene (I'm horrible at spelling)setting rather then a field at Blue Mounds is well worth the trade off for me. I usually go up there for the weekend and do Palisades on Saturday and Blue Mounds on Sunday.