Planning to do the Swiss Arete on Mt. Sill this weekend.
Beta that I've found seems to indicate that in low-snow conditions (as they must be now), one can skirt the glacier completely on the approach below glacier notch, then rap over the short section of snow where the descent crosses the L-shaped Couloir.
Is that the case? If so, it would be nice to leave the axe and crampons at home.
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