Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cave Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bitter Table for One S 
Broken Dreams S 
Divorce Therapy S 
Eman saves Tman S 
Hornass Nest S 
Lords of Karma S 
Manly Woman S 
Matterhorness S 
Meat Gazer S 
Pali Gap S 
Pissed off Mofo S 
Shadows of the Mind S 
T and T S 
Your Flesh is Weak S 

Pali Gap 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 2007 Tony Horness, Tony Lusk, Andy Tretiakoff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 841
Submitted By: Antoine Horness on Aug 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Me leading Pali Gap.
UPDATE 09/23/11* Warning: Bolt and/or hangers missing. Bolts and/or rock on the far right hand side of this wall may be of questionable integrity. Bolts reportedly pulled on Pali Gap and adjacent routes. Check back for further updates from the FA. MORE INFO >>>

Pali Gap notes 

UPDATE 09/23/11* Warning: Bolt and/or hangers missing. Bolts and/or rock on the far right hand side of this wall may be of questionable integrity. Bolts reportedly pulled on Pali Gap and adjacent routes. Check back for further updates from the FA.

This route is the first route on the north side of the Cave Wall - Bulgy warm up B/C



Comments on Pali Gap Add Comment
Show which comments
By James DeRoussel
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 28, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The left bolt at the anchor flexes visibly under body weight.

By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Both bolts seemed fine though not pointed in the correct direction for the least amount of stress. It was late when I was up there so I didn't fix it but I will next time I climb the route.

You can set top rope (or walk off) on this one however I would use caution and anchor in to one chain before trying to set them both up.

By ryan dillon
From: Tucson, AZ.
Jun 8, 2010

For as much as you complain about bolts you would think you were a trad climber.

By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 5, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

For as much as you post right after I do on routes you aren't ticking you'd think you were following me :)

There is a difference between posting an observation and complaining, something to keep in mind for the next comment of mine you comment on. Be well brother.

By AmyH
May 30, 2011

Looks like the right anchor bolt is loose. We hand tightened, but if you have a tool with you, bring it.

By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Sep 1, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very fun little route. Good climb for someone just starting to lead as there is a bolt every few feet. Also once you do this you can TR the 5.8 next to it.

By Antoine Horness
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 25, 2011

The anchors and hangers have been pulled from Lords of Karma and Pali Gap due to a report from a climber of loose bolts. Yesterday, I checked all of the anchors, hangers and bolts by shock loading them with a Grigri backup and could find no loose bolts. Some of the hangers and one of the anchors needed routine tightening. I don't think there is anything wrong but shut down the routes and pulled the anchors and hangers

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 25, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Bummer that you shut down the routes. While I agree the rock quality isn't the greatest I doubt the routes were unsafe.

That said I appreciate that you are maintaining the crag and watching out for our safely.

By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I climbed this on 9.17.2011 and the bolt were fine. These were the 2 easiest routes on this wall regardless of what the #'s say. I urge you to re-open this route!!! It's FUN!!!!!