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Paleface Slab

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Earth Tears Left 
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Paleface Slab 


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Elevation: 5,700'
Lat, Long: 31.9354, -109.9969 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,637
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Oct 11, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Paleface Slab, Cochise Stronghold, AZ.

Description 

Paleface Slab is a clean face with a southerly aspect and relatively easy access in the Western Stronghold. Both Kerry's (1997) and Abbott's (2006) guidebooks list three routes. Two of these can be recognized by their SMC hangers.
At least two new additional tightly-bolted lines with big gray hangers have recently been installed. (Plus, there are a number of oddly placed old bolts in the waterstreak area where Feast of Friends is purported to go; I'm not sure what they belong to; the top bolt is a buttonhead with a Leeper hanger, so I'm not gonna try that one).


Getting There 

From the end of Forest Road 687, start up the standard approach toward Whale Dome, etc (e.g., up the northern wash, not Trail #279). After about 8-10 minutes, the trail to Paleface diverges left out of the creekbed. This point is marked by a huge dead, rotten oak tree on the left bank. Follow this overgrown path up a ridge, staying out of the boulder fields and aiming left of a small pinnacle until you are well left of Paleface. Keep climbing until you are at about the same elevation as the slab. Turn hard right and traverse over to the base.


Descent 

The original 3 routes in Kerry's guidebook all share the Paleface rap anchor (2 bolts with quicklinks). It requires two 50m+ ropes to safely rap from there. The newer bolted lines have their own rap anchors, and also require two ropes to descend.
--Alternately, once, I lacked a second rope, and we took the opportunity to see if there is a scramble all the way to the top of the ridge and then down a gully to the west. There is.


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Paleface Slab:
Earth Tears Right   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   
Browse More Classics in Paleface Slab

Featured Route For Paleface Slab
Ojo Blanco (5.8), Paleface Slab, Cochise Stronghold, AZ.

Ojo Blanco 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c  AZ : Cochise Stronghold : ... : Paleface Slab
Stiff 5.8 crimping and edging on flexy Rye-krisp flakes.Calling this a 'sport' route isn't probably fair, though; more like 'bolt-protected face/friction'. It has the feel of having been bolted on lead....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

News and Events For Paleface Slab
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By Costas
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 4, 2012

Nice bit of climbing gents. I've looked at that water-streak for a long time. I seem to remember hearing there are roughly 10-15 routes established on different parts of Paleface. Many are unpublished. You might encounter some random bolts, these may be previously established routes.