Pale Face 5.11+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Aaron Miller & Rick Bradshaw |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Aaron Miller on Mar 17, 2007 |
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Perkins working through the crux on the red point....
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Description Long, fantastic route. Climbs through a fun roof at the beginning to a shallow dihedral with technical stemming and a steep pumpy crux.
Location 10 feet left of Grape Ape.
Protection 14 bolts plus two for the anchor.
By Robin From: Albuquerque, NM Mar 17, 2008
| This route is really fun. I can't wait to get back to send it.... |
By Jason Halladay Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Nov 9, 2008 rating: 5.11d
| A 70m rope is just barely long enough to lower/TR this route. |
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Dec 17, 2008
| Long route and fun climbing but this thing appears to need a little more cleaning! Several X "death chunks" tarnish this route (at least, I think they are bad holds, I didn't feel like testing on the way up, nor did I put the X's on them). It's kind of frustrating when the best hold, right in front of you, has a big X on it! Fortunately, the bolts are well placed and any fall would be of no consequence. |
By J. Albers From: Colorado Jan 5, 2011 rating: 5.11d
| Absolutely outstanding route. One of the better 11+'s I have climbed in NM. Superior movement and rock. In particular, the shallow dihedral is stellar. Cheers to Aaron and Rick for the time and effort to put this up. A couple of things regarding finding the climb and the rock quality that Anthony mentioned. I looked around quite a bit and I could not find the "plaque" that is mentioned by Marc. Nevertheless, the route description above is sufficient to find the climb (though the route is probably only 10 feet to the left of Grape Ape). Also, the rock must have cleaned up a bit since Anthony did this route, because what I encountered was clean and solid (and I am usually quite picky about rock quality). Whatever 'X' block Anthony encountered is gone. |
By Aaron Miller Oct 13, 2012
| Yeah, somebody stole the plaque??? But it is easy to find, the name gives it away too. It did clean up superbly. |
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