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Elevation: 215 ft
GPS: 28.6135, 68.55469
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Shared By: Ali Jaffri on Jan 5, 2009 · Updates
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Warning Access Issue: Permit required above 6500 meters. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Pakistan has over 162 peaks over 7000 meters and 5 peaks over 8000 meters. It has 4 distinct areas for big wall climbing, and has the highest concentration of rock towers in the world.

I will be updating this section based on several e-mails I have received from folks on this website. It will take time to answer every question so please be patient.

1. HOW SAFE IS IT THESE DAYS?

My personal recommendation is that you fly into Islamabad and then take the next flight into Skardu or Gilgit. Although Islamabad is safe at this moment (June-27th-2009) I would not recommend hanging out in public places.

Stay away from the Swat Valley, Quetta, Karachi and Peshawer (as a mountaineer these areas are of no interest anyways)

2. CAN I HELP IN ANY WAY?

Yes you can. In two main ways, either you can donate or volunteer. For donations I would recommend Greg Mortenson's Central Asian Institute. The man is a saint in my book, and has done more for the people of northern Pakistan than any Pakistani I know of. Here's a link to his page:

http://www.ikat.org

You can also donate to UNHCR to help the refugees who have been displaced due to all the fighting:

http://www.unhcr.org/emergency/pakistan/global_landing.html

To volunteer contact me at info@unclimbed.com

For as low as $3/day you can stay with local families in Hunza Valley where local school teachers will introduce you to the community. They look forward to foreigners visiting and teaching.

3. HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO GO CLIMBING IN PAKISTAN?

That all depends on the style of climbing and the distance of your approach. Here are some rates:

1. Alpine-Style party (5 members) 3-4 porters with an approach of 7-10 days (Baltoro area).....$800/member

2. Large-scale commercial groups (10+ members) 30-100 porters with an approach of 7-10 days (Baltoro area).....$3000/member

3. Alpine-Style party (5 members) 3-4 porters with an approach of 2-4 days (Nanga Parbat/Hunza area).....$900/member

4. Large-scale commercial groups (10+ members) 30-100 porters with an approach of 2-4 days (Nanga Parbat/Hunza area).....$1500/member

Permits are not included in the cost provided above.

Here is a list of reputable companies.

1. Nazir Sabir Expeditions

Nazir is a mountaineer himself, a local politician, and has devoted his life to the promotion of mountaineering in Pakistan. If you go with him he will have his chefs prepare a 3 course meal for you no matter where you go. Ofcourse you get what you pay for, a mountaineering expedition to Broad Peak or GI with him will run you about $6000/person.

2. Waljees Travel

These guys are highly overpriced and dont know the mountains as well as Nazir Sabir does.

3. Unnamed Unclimbed Expeditions

This is my company, we provide logistical support TO the base-camps of peaks in Pakistan. Our operations are not on as grand of a scale therefore and the emphasis is on minimal impact on the environment. A trip to one of the 8000 meter peaks would run you about half as much as anyone else but we refuse to put more than 20 people on a glacier at any given point in time. For details visit unclimbed.com

Getting There Suggest change

By Air:

If you are a resident of the US there are several flights going into Pakistan through Europe and the United Arab Emirates. My personal recommendation is the Emirates Airline non-stop flight from Houston, TX to Dubai, UAE. From Dubai you would transfer flights and its about a 3 hour flight to Islamabad.

If you are a fan of aerial photography then I would recommend taking a flight between Islamabad and Paris which leaves Islamabad around 8 am. Till about 2 pm you will be flying over several mountain ranges.

By Road:

1. Along Karakoram Highway from Kasghar China. Fly into Beijing, then take a train to Kasghar. From Kasghar you can hop on a bus heading to Pakistan. Make sure you have your visa beforehand in the US.

2. Border crossing in public bus or train from India. Fly into Delhi, and take a bus from Delhi to Lahore, Pakistan. From Lahore to Islamabad is another 4 hours. I would avoid this because during the climbing season both Delhi and Lahore are ridiculously hot. Its very common for even locals to succumb to heat exhaustion.

3. Across Khyber Pass from Afghanistan (not recommended)

Needless to say this route is only for the very adventurous!

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