| Pakeho Crag |
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You MUST phone (07 8788223) and speak to Paul to get permission to climb
EVERY time you want to use the site (best done the evening before), and please don't
turn up with more people than you tell us are coming.
1. - Don't park on the drive or in any way obstruct access along the drive.
2. - No dogs, guns or fires!
3. - Keep it peaceful. No music, portable CD players, car stereos etc.
and a minimum of shouting and swearing please!
4. - Do not interfere with or remove any equipment left or stored on the site.
5. - Carabiners and rapides on belays are to be left as you found them.
Under no circumstances are rapides to be removed from the rigging
(usually chain), or re-arranged on the rigging.
6. - Take your rubbish with you.
7. - Stick to the climbing area, do not go wandering off elsewhere.
8. - The caves are strictly off-limits, Keep away.
9.- If you are asked to vacate a climb or keep clear of a spot while it is used for a
tour please do so quickly and graciously.
Fixed Rigging and Belays
There are two permanent ropes on "the Tower". They are NOT there for the use of
climbers. By all means flick them out of your way but otherwise do not use them or
interfere with their rigging, and leave them as you find them. This applies to any
ropes you may find elsewhere on the crag as well.
Belays are equipped with a rapide for lowering and top-roping. Most are double
bolts and chain (DBC-R), some are wire rope (W-R). A couple have a rigging plate
(P-R).
The rapide system is set up to be quick and easy with the leader remaining on-belay
at all times:
1. Clip the chain, or an eyelet in the case of wire rope, as you would a bolt
runner, then undo the rapide.
2. Drop your rope into the rapide and do it up – finger tight only!
3. Remove your gear and lower away!
Using this system as described will avoid leaders being dropped through miscommunication,
incorrectly re-tying knots etc.
Tighten rapides FINGER TIGHT ONLY, do not over-tighten them!
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Pakeho at sunset
Description A limestone fault scarp in the bush margin overlooking the Mangapu Stream. The flaggy limestone here does have bands of variable quality, as is typical of Te Kuiti Group limestones, but is generally very solid. The climbs are dominated by horizontal breaks, so get used to pinch grips, but on most routes you will end up
using a wide variety of holds.
Pakeho is purely as a sport climbing crag – no mixed routes and it's only a trad route until its bolted! A 60m rope and a dozen draws will get you up everything so far. It's a new crag so a helmet is recommended! Initial development concentrated on medium and low grade routes and with the focus being on routes for novice climbers and introducing sport leading. Many routes have good gear placements (ignore the bolts and lead trad if you like) resulting in a good training venue for placing gear and trad leading.
Recreational climbers visiting the crag need to understand the venue has been developed (from scratch) by, and for the use of, Green Glow eco-adventures as a
component of their adventure tourism activities. Access is controlled by Green Glow and recreational climbers are welcome to use the site on the grounds that they do not interfere in any way with Green Glow activities. Much of the attraction of the place
is its peaceful, green setting and we would like to keep it that way, so we may limit numbers. Please read the conditions below and stick to them. Abuse by individuals will result in that individual being denied further access and widespread abuse will
result in the closure of the crag to climbers.
Getting There Plug 1233 Oparure Rd, Te Kuiti, New Zealand into Google Maps.
ACCESS: You MUST phone Paul Hunt (07 8788223) to get permission to climb EVERY time you want to use the site (best done the evening before), and please don't turn up with more people than you tell Paul are coming. Review the rules of the private crag under the More Info section above before coming.
Topo www.greenglow.co.nz/401/79323.html
Featured Route For Pakeho Crag
Neil at Pakeho Crag
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Neil at Pakeho
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Neil at Paul's crag
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