Pakeho at sunset
A limestone fault scarp in the bush margin overlooking the Mangapu Stream. The flaggy limestone here does have bands of variable quality, as is typical of Te Kuiti Group limestones, but is generally very solid. The climbs are dominated by horizontal breaks, so get used to pinch grips, but on most routes you will end up
using a wide variety of holds.
Pakeho is purely as a sport climbing crag – no mixed routes and it's only a trad route until its bolted! A 60m rope and a dozen draws will get you up everything so far. It's a new crag so a helmet is recommended! Initial development concentrated on medium and low grade routes and with the focus being on routes for novice climbers and introducing sport leading. Many routes have good gear placements (ignore the bolts and lead trad if you like) resulting in a good training venue for placing gear and trad leading.
Recreational climbers visiting the crag need to understand the venue has been developed (from scratch) by, and for the use of, Green Glow eco-adventures as a
component of their adventure tourism activities. Access is controlled by Green Glow and recreational climbers are welcome to use the site on the grounds that they do not interfere in any way with Green Glow activities. Much of the attraction of the place
is its peaceful, green setting and we would like to keep it that way, so we may limit numbers. Please read the conditions below and stick to them. Abuse by individuals will result in that individual being denied further access and widespread abuse will
result in the closure of the crag to climbers.
Plug 1233 Oparure Rd, Te Kuiti, New Zealand into Google Maps.
ACCESS: You MUST phone Paul Hunt (07 8788223) to get permission to climb EVERY time you want to use the site (best done the evening before), and please don't turn up with more people than you tell Paul are coming. Review the rules of the private crag under the More Info section above before coming.
Featured Route For Pakeho Crag
Neil at Pakeho Crag
Neil at Pakeho
Neil at Paul's crag