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The Rainbow Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birdhunter Buttress T 
Brown Recluse T 
Desert Solitaire T 
Original Route, The T 
Paiute Pillar T 

Paiute Pillar 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Vincent Poirier, Andrew Fulton (1998)
Page Views: 721
Submitted By: fossana on Apr 27, 2010

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Pitch 8 variation (Bird Hunter Buttress 5.7 squeez...

Description 

INTRO
Be prepared for 5.9 runouts on lichen-covered, suspect rock. I've seen this rated as PG13, but it's more of an R. Ratings felt kind of soft, so more of a mental crux plus crap rock.

On the upside you'll be rewarded with spectacular views of Brownstone Wall, Rainbow Wall and Cloud Tower. We did the first 6 pitches, then finished on Bird Hunter Buttress. There's not much beta on this route in Handren's guide, but there's a brief description and topo in Brock and McMillen's Red Rock Canyon: A Climbing Guide.

ROUTE
P1 (5.9, 180')
Climb up the prominent splitter crack in the middle of the red cliff band.

P2 (4th, 200')
Angle up and right to reach a large ledge.

P2 (5.9, 110')
Head straight up the face to the ledge with a tree.

P3 (5.9, 200')
Instead of pulling the crappy white sandstone roof we traversed up and right toward a small varnished arete of sorts. After pulling onto the arete move slightly back left toward the crack that splits the licheny face. Belay at a ledge.

P4 (5.9, 170')
Climb the runout face aiming for the base of a prominent right-facing corner from which you will belay on gear.

P5 (5.8, 100')
Climb up the face to the left of the right-facing corner clipping 3 old bolts. Belay at a ledge with a bush.

P6 (5.7, 175')
Climb up the pillar. Optionally climb the (better) mossy 5.8 right-facing corner to the right, part of Bird Hunter Butress. Crappy bolts but the crack protects with small cams. Note: there were tons of ants all over the belay ledge.

P7 (5.9, 200')
Head up the face right then up over a roof to belay on a ledge. Optionally, climb the fun and grovelly 5.7 squeeze chimney on Bird Hunter Buttress. You'll wish you had dieted. One bolt. Belay from prominent ledge.

P8 (5.8, 180')
Move slightly right passing one bolt then through a roof.

P9 (4th, 80')
Go up and left to the top.

Location 

APPROACH
Park at either Pine Creek or Oak Creek. Take the trail up Juniper Canyon, passing below Cloud Tower and Jack Rabbit Buttress. The trail will cross the wash then head up a red dirt hill before dropping back down into the wash. Look left for a slab heading up toward the base of the wall. Work your way up the slabs heading climber's right for the base of an obvious dark red cliff band. This took us 1:20, although I've seen guidebook times up to 4 hours. You can leave packs at the base as you'll end your raps uphill and left from the start.

DESCENT
If you took the Bird Hunter Buttress variation you'll see a rap station climber's left and ~20 feet above the ledge. Head up toward it then hand traverse on the exposed but easy ledge system heading left around the corner until you reach a rap station. Note: we finished on Bird Hunter, so I don't have any firsthand info on getting from the top of Paiute Pillar to the first Brown Recluse rap station. The topo shows a rap station from the summit. Both routes rap Brown Recluse with a single 70m. From Bird Hunter you will start lower down.

Be cautious as some of the rap stations are close to the end of the rope and/or are difficult to locate. You do not want to do this in the dark; Plan accordingly.

Descend back down the slabs. The final steepest slab has a rap station that takes you down the (potentially wet) water streak.

Protection 

Not much beta on this. We brought gear to 4", with doubles 0.5" to 2" (#4 optional for future reference). Nuts weren't overly useful. The bolts on this route were mostly antiquated or spinners. Some fixed anchors/slung trees.

A 70m rope will allow you to rap from the top of Brown Recluse with a single rope.


Photos of Paiute Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 6
Pitch 6
Approach slabs
Approach slabs
Pitch 5
Pitch 5
Pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1
Pitch 4
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4
Looking back to Brownstone Wall
Looking back to Brownstone Wall
Rainbow Wall comes into view
BETA PHOTO: Rainbow Wall comes into view
Bird Hunter variation exit to Brown Recluse rap station
BETA PHOTO: Bird Hunter variation exit to Brown Recluse rap st...

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