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Paisano Pinnacle
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Continuation T 
Eyes Wide Shut T 
Mantle of No Return T 
Mushy Peach T 
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Skigliak T 
Step Away, The T 
Superfly T 
Wise Guys T 

Paisano Overhang 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Pat Callis & Charlie Raymond, January 1968, FFA: John Long, 1973
Page Views: 9,545
Submitted By: Bruce Diffenbaugh on Feb 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Todd Gordon on "Paisano Overhang". Photo...


The Paisano Overhang is a 4" to 6" offwidth 20 foot roof crack on Paisano pinnacle atop the Sunshine Face on the front side of Paisano jam crack. The crux is definitely the lip the last 6 to 8 feet of the roof go beyond inverted with MAX exposure high above the Sunshine Face.


Paisano pinnacle


Large cams 4" to 6" bolt Anchors

Photos of Paisano Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: John Long on First Free Ascent of Paisano Overhang...
John Long on First Free Ascent of Paisano Overhang...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Anderson (Bat hang) 1980's photo by Sam Davids...
Jay Anderson (Bat hang) 1980's photo by Sam Davids...
Rock Climbing Photo: The late Tobin Sorenson (1973) photo from JL.And s...
The late Tobin Sorenson (1973) photo from JL.And s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Anderson (1980's)photo by Sam Davidson.
Jay Anderson (1980's)photo by Sam Davidson.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the lip on a failed attempt.
At the lip on a failed attempt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up to the Paisano Overhang
BETA PHOTO: Looking up to the Paisano Overhang

Comments on Paisano Overhang Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 28, 2015
By Adam Stackhouse
Oct 22, 2006

Didn't the story of Long's FA involve something about gloves?
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Feb 23, 2007

Apparently he used electric tape for tape gloves...
By Tom Hanson
Oct 12, 2007

I had heard that he used welders gloves and later, Randy Leavitt invented Levitation to sumount this obstacle.
By C Miller
Oct 12, 2007

The story of how Leavittation came to be was in an old Mountain Magazine article years back, but I can't recall the issue number. Randy and Tony Yaniro perfected their technique on the concrete roof cracks of a parking garage, while Tony trained for the Grand Illusion on the underside of some stairs at Glendale High School, or so the story goes.
By Richard Radcliffe
From: Louisville, CO
Dec 3, 2007

Randy Leavitt's article about the first FA of Paisono Overhang and the invention of Leavittation.
By Russ Walling
Dec 3, 2007

Video clip of Paisano from "On the Rocks" is available on this page, under Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks:
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 8, 2008

4 stars because it's famous? How many times has this thing been done?
By Russ Walling
Feb 8, 2008

4 stars, for sure. Great location, great rock, spectacular moves, big history.
I've only tried it once. I got my foot stuck around the lip, so I ended up hanging from one leg upside down for about a half hour or so. I was finally able to untie and abandon my shoe and then dropped out of the crack onto the slab below. After that ordeal, I had to aid out there to retrieve my shoe that was still firmly fixed in the crack above the lip of the roof. I have yet to return for round #2. Someday....
By Calirado
Jul 19, 2009

Russ Walling wrote:
I was finally able to untie

Just from your shoe, I presume :)
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 23, 2009

All time classic. Exposure, pride of place on the wall, history, moves, this one has it all. Not "R" with modern gear, although it can be difficult to place from strenuous positions.

Gear Beta: Belay anchor at start of route= 1 each: 0.5 camalot, pre-c4 #4 camalot, yellow#2 tcu or yellow alien. Roof in order to the lip, pre-c4 camalots = #4s before the constriction/jog, #4.5s after. Take two of each.

Access: Climb basically anything on the Weeping Wall or Sunshine Face. We soloed up the Bye Gully.

Historical Note: Contrary to the description, the bongs were not placed on lead during the FFA. They were pre-placed.

And that leads to a pretty important factor if you are attempting this route on the lead: how to keep your rope from jamming in the roof pro after turning the lip. With a bong at the lip, no issue, rope runs around, well a tube or big bro or something is probably a good idea right after the lip to keep the rope out of your lower gear. Recommend a #2 bro (yeah, who owns one that small right?).
By Bob Gaines
Oct 1, 2009

Went up there with John Long back in the 80's. Climbed Paisano Jam Crack and set up a top rope. John tied in and jammed right out to the lip... and came off. When he fell, the rope traveled through the crack, and he hit the slab so hard I thought he broke both legs, but he was fine. He got right back up there and did it second try, no problem, with no tape on his hands!
By Eli Buzzell
Oct 27, 2015

With large cams is this route still R rated? How R rated is it?
By GoBoy
Oct 28, 2015

It is not "r" as in run out. You can plug a cam anywhere you want, it is pretty complicated to protect it well when/if you make it out of the roof. You must use a big bro or clip a cam pointing back to the belayer inside the crack, as a directional to keep the rope from getting stuck. Can't really call it R I guess, but it should be noted that the pro is complicated.

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