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This area offers one classic ice route: Way in the Wilderness. It is the obvious two-pitch ice rivulet seen from the Kancamagus Highway. Because of the wall's south-facing aspect, an ascent of Way in the Wilderness is an elusive one, saved for the dead of winter on the coldest possible cloudy day.
Right off the Kanc. Park below the route, cross the river (sketchy), hike up the steep hill (sketchy and tiring) up to the route. If the ice on the river doesn't support your weight, chances are that the route is not in shape.
2 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Painted Walls Ice Climbs:
The Painted Wall Icicle WI5+ M9 Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 200'
Way in the Wilderness WI5 Ice, 2 pitches, 150'
Featured Route For Painted Walls Ice Climbs
Way in the Wilderness WI5 NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Painted Walls Ice Climbs
Pitch 1: Go up the steep ice until you reach the ledge in a cave behind vertical ice. Set up a belay there (old pitons and slings). Pitch 2: Leave the ledge and commit to the vertical and detached ice pillar (crux). The ice eventually angles down into a shute between the rocks. Follow the shute all the way up. Rap from slings around a large tree.When ice conditions are poor, do not place screws at the start of pitch 2 until you're above the detached pillar. This would limi...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
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