I only seconded this route, and i don't have the most detailed gear beta.
Located just right of Amaretto Corner, from the ground you'll see a thin hands crack up to a very thin chimney/offwidth, to a four foot horizonatal roof, etc. The chimney was pretty tough and bloody for me, and it has plenty of loose rock, so be careful. The roof actually is not that tough in comparison to the rest of the climb- just a really sweet undercling-highstep-lieback move.
For me, the toughest part of the climb was the LONG thin hands crack that goes from above the roof to the anchors. Very few rests, and continuous green and red camalots... ugh.
The anchors are kind of sketchy. First of all, I think that some rock has fallen off this route, leaving about 10-15 feet of ugly slab from the end of the crack up to the anchors. The anchors themselves are one old fixed piton, and one fixed hex. NO CHAINS!!! You may want to bring replacement webbing.
This is not a very good route to top-rope, as it is nearly 140 feet high. Furthermore, you will DEFINITELY want to back up the anchors for belaying your second- if you even use them at all.
All in all, there is good climbing on this route. Just be aware that it is not one of the Creek's pseudo-sporty, non-commital affairs.
The whole scope, from #.75 to #5 (camalot sizes).
|By Mike Sokoloff|
Dec 22, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
A great route to jump on when all the trade routes are crowded. I found the climbing to be quality and very interesting with an enduro factor to the finish. There are chockstones in the chimney which take stoppers very well; I would suggest bringing a few. The roof moves are amazing and the thinhands to the top on worsening rock are a lot of fun.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Oct 22, 2009
From Bjornstad, 1998
Earl Wiggins and Katy Cassidy, late 1970s
|By Devin Fin|
Jun 8, 2010
new brown soft shuts below the old mess. Edit; cut down the old mess 4/29/12
|By Matt Pesce|
From: moab, ut.
Dec 27, 2013
Thanks Devin and others for renovating the old Painted Pink Polypropelene Pony. Maybe now more folks will get on this old school classic. Definitely employ your best belay practices on this climb. (Helmets :)