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 ADVANCED
Sweet Pain Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A-Cute Pain T 
Gambler, The S 
Glitter Gulch S 
Lee Press On S 
Pain in the Neck S 
Sister of Pain S 
Slave to the Grind S 
Sour Pain S 
Sweet Pain S 

Pain in the Neck 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 898
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 3, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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The right-hand variation, nice moves on good holds...

Description 

This route may have been named for the difficulty in getting to and clipping the first two bolts.

Near the far right end of the Sweet Pain wall there is a big rounded bowl inset into the wall.

Climb up and into the bowl of rock, clipping one bolt. Reportedly this route can be done at 5.10a by moving right, up and then back left to the second bolt, but this seemed broken-up and less of a natural line to me. As well, I watched a 5'2" partner try to pink-point the route this way, and she was unable to get to a good stance to clip the second bolt this way, eventually electing to pass the crux, then clip it below.

Climbing up and left for the first few bolts felt like insecure 5.10c, but was a better and probably safer line. Climb past 3 more bolts on easier terrain to the fixed anchor on top of the route.

This is not a good line to push your limits on.

Protection 

A set of draws for the bolts. Shorter climbers will find the climb awkward and clips difficult for the grade expressed here. Blowing the second clip would result in a ground fall.


Photos of Pain in the Neck Slideshow Add Photo
Michelle Moffat follows 'Pain In The Neck' (5.10) on Sweet Pain Wall. Photo by Chris Parks, 2003(?)
Michelle Moffat follows 'Pain In The Neck' (5.10) ...

Comments on Pain in the Neck Add Comment
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By Andrew Bradberry
From: Golden, CO
May 19, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Scaaaary second clip.. I blew it on my onsite attempt and hit the ground, but if you can cruise through those opening moves look for a good hold near the 2nd bolt to make your clip.
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Jul 21, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This is one of those routes where it seems that somebody decided to average the difficulty of all the moves, rather than rate it for it's single hardest section. That being said, unless you are to level where you can crush any 5.10, stick clip this one. It's not worth it.
By B Roth
From: st george, ut
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

I'm just not seeing the 10a on this route. The first couple bolts require balance and good sloper work. I felt the opening moves on this one were more difficult than anything on glitter gulch.
By Ben May
From: Escondido, CA
Oct 30, 2012

I have to bump up the stars here... because it is fun. I do have one question tho. Does the route go strait up the small crimps to the laft the of the giant hueco or is it an option to go right and opt for the monster holds then secure that second bolt?
By Ray Davalos
From: Encinitas, CA
Mar 12, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

a little spooky as the book says, but the moves to the second clip are super fun. I think the 10c variation up the middle is scarier, the moves being much less secure.
By Kenyoj
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 18, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R

Absolutely worth doing. Very fun moves, stout, and technical. Felt WAY better after clipping the 2nd bolt.
By Mtnfly
From: El Segundo, Ca
Apr 3, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

You will deck if you miss second clip. Fun climb if you weren't worrying about decking 20 ft at the crux.