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The Pagoda is the western face of two rocks (the other being "The Rock of Ages" to the east) with a narrow alley between them. From the west the Pagoda can be noticed as having a very large face that is about 80' at the leftmost side and spans to a length of about 150' on it's right side. There are four routes on the Pagoda last I was there one of which is an aid route up the shortest side of the rock at the top of the alley between it and Rock of Ages. The other routes are on the western face ranging from 5.7 - 5.10.
The best way to approach The Pagoda is from the stage road in Pine Canyon. There is a wash that leads directly up to it and is relatively easy to spot from the road. The other way to reach the Pagoda is from the state park road and walk down to it from the Pine Canyon ridge line. If climbing on Castle Rock, there is a diagonal trail with mixed bush whacking to arrive at the Pagoda as well.
4 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pagoda Rock:
The Pillar 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Dry December 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Blue Zenith 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
The Unsung War 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Featured Route For Pagoda Rock
The Pillar 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13 CA : SF Bay Area : ... : Pagoda Rock
Most of the bolts were replaced on this route in late 05. The bolts on the anchors came out by hand. "Please, if you have never placed bolts in soft sandstone....DON'T". Some think the crux is just above the third bolt on the first pitch, some think its just below the top out on the second. Personally, I think its the top out. The rock is really solid for the most part on this route and it takes gear well. The bolts on the first pitch are a bit spacy but seem to come just before you might actual...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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