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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Age Before Beauty 
Blood On the Cracks 
Cleaned For Her Pleasure 
Compromising Positions 
Eta Eva 
Extreme Makeover 
Fist Fight 
Full Circle 
Gold 
Lost Art 
Mr. Clean 
page for page fixes to NWOR 
Pledge Allegiance 
Plumber's Crack 
Radical Sabatical 
Sendero De Sangre 
Sidewinder 
Up on A Pedestal 
Zion Train 

page for page fixes to NWOR 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: PDub-Trad on Sep 20, 2012
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Page # 265= I used he/she or she, he used he, 5th paragraph

Pg. #266 = Every draft I’ve written reads “…brush moss with wire brushes…” never “…move moss…”

Pg. #271 = 4th paragraph should read “…the large
black column split by Cleaned for Her Pleasure marks the start of the Pleasure Palace, after Mushroom Band and…” not “…end of…”

Pg. #275 Above topo supplements a topo of the same nature that was omitted from publishing, submitting by author.

Pg. #276 Should Read: “Climb 12’ of dirty wet dihedral drainage crack before moving right to horizontal fist to wide fists crack…”

Pg. #277 Simple typo on Fist-Fight “…to a gain a great lie-back…” should be “…to gain a great lie-back…”

Pg. #278 Wild Things – should read: “Second 5.8 (crux) , feels like 5.9 unprotected”.

Pg. #279 EYS is ** (2 star rating) climb

Pg. #281 Topo #30 is not H & R – Hit and Run is another 2-3 lines climbers left or west (as indicated in my mapping from an eagle-eye overhead). The line labeled #30 is a project line that has been eyed and never led, cleaned or climbed.

Pg. #281 Topo for Pleasure Palace His #31 Age Before Beauty is a stretch of imagination. I never identified a place for Age Before Beauty. It’s location in relation to other climbs numerically and ordering is correct, but it’s true spot on the band is difficult to see with foliage and is yet photographed or identified in photographs. This was made clear in regard to ABB by author.

Pg. #282 2nd Topo down #31 and #31a wants to be #30 and #30a = Hit and Run not Age Before Beauty. Hit and Run is incorrectly identified by number but is correct by name and photo – needs #30under it. Previous identification of Hit and Run page 281 is incorrect

General: Route #31 is Age Before Beauty – ABB is not identified in photographs and should not be labeled in ANY PHOTOS WHATSOEVER. Its general area is identified in the overview eagle eye mapping correctly, but facing the cliff is has not been id’ed and shouldn’t be connected to ANY PHOTO

#282 Bottom Topo - Full Circle #38 is visible #32+ #1 ABB + Under the Big is WRONG. The line indicated for # 31 and #32 SHOULD BE #36, #37 Orange Crush and Widespread Panic.

#284 Dru’s Direct in topo is labeled #39a but #40 in route list. Topo should have 40 instead of 39

#286 – Ari’s Dihedral, Nip Tuck/Tic Talk are misidentified in this and other topos for section. Ari’s dihedral is climbers right or east of Extreme Makeover, with the a shared final belay ledge. The crack around pillars corner and climbers left or west of Extreme Makeover IS NOT ARI’s. This mislabeling carries over for next few pages#41 is supposed to be #43 Ari’s Dihedral or still numerically 41 with a change to #41 being Ari’s

What is labeled in topos as #43 Ari’s Dihedral should be #44 Nip Tuck/Tic Talk or #45 Morning Wood Afternoon Delight. Not Ari’s

#286 route text Ari’s should read “…tops out near Extreme Makeovers top-out (climbers right or east)…”

#287 Makeover Band Topo – Ari’s is wrong again

#288 ETA EVE is not this close to D.P. The topo should be and was submitted to the publisher as D.P. by itself. If “cleaned” lines near are in fact developed they are not Eta Eva, they may be Best Kept Secret?? or some other lesser known line. Eta Eva is completely in the Mosserati Corner at least 100 ft further west past a turn in the trail, past Helter Skelter. There has to be at least 5 to 6 project lines between D.P. and Helter Skelter.

#288 MOSSERATI TOPO OMMITTED –

#289 to 290 in caption: omit “Mike mentioned…” pg. 290 has entire caption w/out first sentence of page 289.

#290 Caption should start “Originally minimally cleaned…”

#290 Should read “…The Towers aren’t” or “are not” instead of “The Towers is not very large….” Middle paragraph

#290 Having #60 on the left edge of photo is a stretch – it may be right or it be wrong, but it was not an identification I’ve made. I have never attempted to place Case of the Blues on a photo as I don’t have enough familiarity to the route. I’ve confirmed its numeric location and ordering in relation to surrounding climbs and those aspects are correct, but it is a jump to put that 60 on the left edge of photo.

#294 The top topo is fine. The bottom topo has a numbering error for Bold Deli Flavor and Baker’s Dozen. To correlate with top topo, and text numbering it should be #69 for Bold Deli Flavor and #70 for Baker’s Dozen.

Pg. 295,6,7 Omissions of mapping and topo photos for Workingman’s Lack, Nightmare on Madrone St., Slot Machine, Sendero de Sangre, Shangri-La, unclimbed walls previous to Shangri-La and after Sendero Wall. The Sendero section was basically hacked, along with Shangri-La and topo photos for Slot Machine and concentration of routes around Workingman’s Lack. CRUCIAL!!!!


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