Padroni e Pagliacci   5.12d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.12d [details] FA:  Simone Pedeferri, Marco Vago, 2004 Submitted By:  Top Rope Hero on Oct 27, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Means: You are CRAZY to not love this climb...

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Description 

"Those crimpers are MONEY!"
~Matt Nance

[The following is as reported by Mr. Nance.]

A two-crux power animal. Works up hero tufa jugs right into a Euro smackdown crux just as the wall seems to un-steepen a bit. Jet past (you've got a long way to go, suckha), and move up the powerful tech-y face, comically sustained. But you won't be laughing long if you don't take advantage of the rest before you get to the vicious crimp crux and have to fire through the unexpectedly sharp and highly sequential crux that surprises you at the very end. (Only now it won't...beta spoiler!)

Send it, young warrior...

Location 

On the tufa-encrusted wall just right of the upper Iliada Right cave.

Protection 

Many, many draws. And guts; the eye of the hamster won't do, here.