At the Neanderthal Wall as you're going south on the trail, go past the large block and find an arete on the wall with a small alcove to the right of the arete. In the back of the alcove, climb the double cracks. The first moves off the deck are reachy, but the climb offers a fine, moderate lead.
Standard rack. Some hexes work well in the cracks.
Per teece303: there is a two bolt anchor with quicklinks.
Ben on an early trad lead at his home stomping gro...
BETA PHOTO: Ascending the single crack on the right down low, ...
|By Dan Mottinger|
Sep 15, 2002
Please note that this route follows the cracks marked as number 2 in the bottom picture.
From: Portland, OR
Aug 16, 2003
Damn fun route. Very good beginner trad-lead in my opinion. don't be afraid to reach a bit higher and find much better holds. The more timid you are, the harder the route. Either way, fun-fun-fun.
From: Bear Creek, CO
Apr 2, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Great route with great protection. I wish it was longer. The opening moves are steep, and there's some loose rock at the crux before entering the chimney. No way I'd send a beginner leader up this one, but it's a good place to practice setting some anchors at the bottom.
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Jul 4, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
This route has two bolts at the top, with quicklinks. One of the bolts is a a spinner.
It overhangs by a few feet, which is surprising when you look at it (but watch the rope hang, it does not contact the rock at all).
It is harder than 5.6 -- 5.8 I'd say, at least by modern standard. The crack will eat up protection. The crux is down low.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Sep 22, 2013
Like many of the routes here, on no planet is this 5.6.