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 ADVANCED
Sunset Flatironette
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Disinclination T,TR 
Pack Rat T 
South Ridge [better known as Chase the Sun] T 
Steppin' Out T 

Pack Rat 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 310
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Apr 4, 2002

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Erik W leading Pack Rat.

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route 70 foot route climbs the severely overhanging West face at the only possible weakness on the wall. It follows a slot/dihedral that starts some 30 feet south of the North West corner of the rock.

The start is best reached by following the trail between the First and Second all the way up and skirting around the North side of the Sunset Flatiron. It is a nice extra credit after completing routes on either of the First or Second Flatirons.

Start at the base of the slot and climb past three cruxes/bulges. Each requoring different technique. The route protect very well. Once you reach the ridge scramble 10 feet North (left) to the summit.

Descent - downclimb East to easier territory and eventually onto the trail.

You can see the Sunset Flatironette on the picture just left of the first. This is a view from the Third.

Protection 

Standard rack, #3 Camalot will come in handy.


Photos of Pack Rat Slideshow Add Photo
George Bell in a no-hands rest at the crux of Pack Rat, Sunset Flatironette.  Photo by Warren Teissier.
George Bell in a no-hands rest at the crux of Pack...
First from the Third.
BETA PHOTO: First from the Third.
Erik W getting off the ground on Pack Rat.
Erik W getting off the ground on Pack Rat.

Comments on Pack Rat Add Comment
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By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
Aug 5, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This makes an all right warm up climb and easy access to Disinclination if you want to setup a top rope. There is some loose stuff and we found a couple small cams handy and did not need a #3.